Allure USA – May 2019

(Grace) #1

broad-spectrum
adj. br d-spek-tr m


A sunscreen that offers protection from both
UVB rays, which burn skin, and UVA rays,
which cause damage like collagen breakdown,
says Elizabeth Hale, a dermatologist in New
York City. For the best sun protection, use only
sunscreens labeled “broad-spectrum.”


chemical
adj. ke-mi-k l


A term used to describe a sunscreen that
protects from UV rays by absorbing them with
chemical ingredients, such as octocrylene
or avobenzone (though it’s worth noting even
“mineral” sunscreens are made in labs).


clinically tested
adj. kli-ni-kl te-st d


Some brands test for distinctions like being
good for sensitive skin, but seeing this term
doesn’t indicate which benefit they tested
for, nor on how many people, says Heather
Woolery-Lloyd, a dermatologist in Miami. So it
shouldn’t sway your choice.


gluten-free
adj. glü-tn-fr


The Gluten Intolerance Group will place its
GFCO seal on beauty products with 10 parts
per million or less of gluten. (But gluten-
containing ingredients, like wheat protein, are
more common in hair care than sunscreen.)


hypoallergenic
adj. h-p -a-l r-je-nik


The FDA doesn’t regulate this term (see
“Caveat Emptor,” below right, for more on
that), and companies can use it whether or
not they’ve formulated a product with a low
likelihood of triggering allergic reactions. If
you tend to react to sunscreens, look for a
fragrance-free mineral formula, says Woolery-
Lloyd.


mineral
adj. min-r l


These sunscreens achieve their SPF factor with
physical blockers, like titanium dioxide and
zinc oxide, says Steven Wang, a dermatologist
in Basking Ridge, New Jersey. (They form a
physical barrier between UV rays and skin.)


From left: Lancôme
UV Expert Mineral
CC Cream SPF 50 in
2 (apply it in
a generous, even
layer as you would
untinted sunscreen)
and Neutrogena
Sheer Zinc Dry Touch
Sunscreen Broad
Spectrum SPF 50.

noncomedogenic
adj. nän-käm- d- -jen-ik
There’s no standard way to validate whether a
beauty product is likely to cause comedones
(pimples). But if you’re acne-prone, choose
sunscreens with drying salicylic acid
and zinc oxide, and avoid ones rich in lipids,
like coconut oil and cocoa butter.

oil-free
adj. i(- )l-fr
This means a product doesn’t contain oil,
but it doesn’t indicate whether it has other
occlusives, like silicone, that can cause
breakouts and even heat rash, says Rachel
Nazarian, a dermatologist in New York City.
If you’re concerned, look for a sunscreen
that skips both oils and silicones. You can
find silicone by looking for names that end
in “-siloxane” or “-thicone,” says cosmetic
chemist Perry Romanowski.

organic
adj. r-ga-nik
While this can mean that a sunscreen’s
botanical ingredients were farmed organically
(look for the USDA seal), no sunscreen can be
100 percent organic. Chemical sunscreens
rely on lab-concocted compounds to protect
from UV rays, and physical ingredients “are
synthetically created—it is illegal to use
mined versions of zinc and titanium dioxide
since they are contaminated with dangerous
levels of heavy metals,” says Romanowski.

reef-friendly, reef-safe
adj. r f-fren(d)-l , r f-s f
Either term should mean that a sunscreen
doesn’t contain any of these five ingredients:
oxybenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene,
4-methylbenzylidene, and butyl-paraben,
says Woolery-Lloyd. Small studies suggest
that these ingredients can affect coral’s
ability to reproduce by harming or killing
coral larvae and even reduce its life span and
immunity. Still, these are unregulated terms,
so double-check the label for any of the
above ingredients if reef safety is a priority.
(Reef-safe sunscreens may also be labeled
“biodegradable,” says Sonya Lunder, senior
toxics adviser for the Sierra Club’s gender,
equity, and environment program.)

sand-resistant
adj. sand-ri-zi-st nt
There’s no standard for just how sand-
repellent a sunscreen is, but some
independent labs offer tests for sunscreen
makers who want to make this claim. “It
means that when the sunscreen was exposed
to several different sands—fine, medium, and
all-purpose—the SPF level didn’t change. This
is usually due to smoother, silkier textures
that don’t allow sand to ‘cling,’” says Nazarian.

sensitive
adj. sen-s -tiv
You’re better off looking at the back of the label
than the front to determine whether or not
a sunscreen is good for sensitive skin. Opt for
physical sunscreens instead of chemical ones,
since they’re less likely to irritate skin, and
look for options without “fragrance,” another
top offender, listed on the ingredient label.

spf
n. s-p-f
Stands for sun protection factor, specifically for
UVB rays. The number next to it is a measure of
how much solar energy is required to produce
a sunburn on protected skin—as the SPF value
increases, so does sunburn protection.
(It’s not a measure of UVA protection—another
reason to choose broad-spectrum sunscreens.)
The FDA’s standard for testing is to apply two
milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter
of skin. Or, in medical terms: “A really thick
layer,” Nazarian says. “So the higher
that number, the better.” She recommends
a minimum broad-spectrum SPF of 30
year-round, and an SPF of at least 50 for beach
days or outdoor activities in the summer.
Reapply every two hours to stay protected.

sport
adj. sp r t
Since there’s no actual test to verify that
a sunscreen is better for activities, any
sunscreen that’s qualified as water-resistant
for 80 minutes will do the trick.

water-resistant
adj. w -t r-ri-zi-st nt
In the U.S., the FDA regulates this term via one
standard test: A subject alternates between
getting wet and drying off multiple times and
is then tested to be sure the sunscreen is still
on and in effect. All sunscreens that use the
term “water-resistant” are required to undergo
the test, so look for the stamp if you know
you’re going to be swimming or sweating. The
Australian government’s Therapeutic Goods
Association requires that sunscreens remain
fully present on skin after four hours of water
exposure. You can seek out sunscreens, like
ones from TropicSport, that are sold in
both countries and have passed both tests.

Caveat Emptor: At the end of the day, most
of these terms are used at the discretion of
the manufacturers, except select terms
regulated by the FDA, like the SPF number,
active ingredients, and “broad-spectrum”
and “water-resistant” claims.

WHAT IT


ALL MEANS


94 ALLURE MAY 20 19


JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

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