Yachting_Monthly_2016-01

62 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com JANUARY 2016

ARCTIC PILOTAGE

GREENLAND

R

Isa

Cape Farewell

LiverpoolLand Warming I.

Milne Land ScoresbysundStorefjord

Denmark Strait

Heimaey

0 100nm

Arctic Circle

Jyttes HavnHecla Havn Neild Bugt IttoqqortoormiitAmdrup Havn

Ammassalik (Tasiilaq)

What you need to
know about Greenland

Stornoway, in the Outer Hebrides, is the ideal jump-off point. In favourable

conditions the direct route to the Westman Islands (see p64) is ideal,

but in unsettled weather going via Faroe and East Iceland makes sense, although this will be against the prevailing current. – north towards Scoresbysund or west to Anmassalik, both about 300 Isafjordur, in the West Fjords of Iceland, gives a choice of destinations

miles across the Denmark Strait. I have always returned by North Iceland and Faroe to reduce the periods at sea, making it easier on the crew.

Alternative routes PHOTO: ALAMY

PHOTO: ALAMY

CHART: MAXINE HEATH

Isafjordur has excellent facilities, including an airport with fl ights

to Reykjavik

Refl ecting now on my experience of exploring this landscape seldom seen by human eyes, I struggle to make sense of

the contradictions. The starting point of any voyage to East Greenland is in the preparation of boat and crew.

Boat & crew preparationThe boat must be sound and spares brought for every conceivable need. ■ Medical kit including dental repairs

and antibiotics – essential ■■■ Insurance, if you can get it Medivac cover This is the Arctic, you will need heaters

■■■good headwear, as well as oversize boots Ice poles to push off growlers As much anchor chain as can be carried Plenty of layers of thermal clothing and

and waterproof, insulated gloves.■■ Sat phone and MF radio Radar

ProvisioningYou’ll need stores and fuel for the longest passage, across the North Atlantic to Iceland, about 600 miles.

■in Iceland. Alcohol costs are Fresh food is readily available prohibitive, so ask Customs for a bond

■self-suffi cient for the The boat needs to be

Bring a gun, preferably a rifl e but at least a shotgun capable of fi ring solid rounds, and make sure someone on

board knows how to use it. Study whatever you can on polar bear behaviour and take advice, especially from Inuit hunters, about what to do in

the event of an encounter.

Polar bears

planned stay in Greenland, although fuel is available at Ittoqqortoormiit and Ammassalik (Tasiilaq)

Ice■meet the fi rst big bergs about 100 miles During a ‘normal’ year, expect to

from Iceland ■anything from open drift to major concentrations up to 30 miles off Ice off the Greenland coast can be

■the maximum safety limit ■Institute ‘egg’ charts for the latest Consider two to three tenths of ice as Check with Danish Metrological

information and satellite photographs■close to Scoresbysund Fog, ice and strong winds are common

Charts I use Danish charts along with land-maps from the Viking Polar Cruise series.

Layers of thermal clothing, quality oilskins, and good headgear and gloves are essential

If you carry a gun, someone needs to know

how to use it

‘More sailors are being tempted

into this brutally spectacular land’