the puffin colonies along the coast. A hike up the Helgafell track takes you past Eldfell, which erupted in 1973
with near-disastrous consequences for Heimaey. The entire population was evacuated overnight with only the emergency services remaining. Heroic
efforts were made to save the town. Even today one can see where the lava stopped just short of the suburbs. Another flow, brought to a halt when
firemen played their hoses on the molten emissions, threatened to block the harbour entrance and would have devastated the entire island economy,
The Irminger current sweeps clockwise around Iceland, so heading on west is In good time you will want to press on. which depends on its fishing industry.
to go with the flow. This can give you a lift of up to two knots, which is useful when rounding Reykanes, 68miles from Heimaey. But another cautionary note
here – beware of getting caught in a wind-against-tide situation. Most of what you need to know is published in the RCC Pilotage Foundation’s Arctic and Northern
Watersessential companion along with up-to-date charts backed up with a good chartplotter.After that, it is a matter of choice. Sail pilot, published by Imray, an
to Keflavic harbour, near the international airport on the mainland for a crew change, round to Reykjavik for the delights of Iceland’s capital city, or press on towards
the West Fjords. Iceland is a rewarding place to visit and the Vestmannaeyjar make a wonderful start. WThe all-weather port of Heimaey showing the entrance to the yacht harbour off the arriving ship’s port beamJANUARY 2016 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com 65ARCTIC pIloTAgenote here. The south-west corner of Iceland can be a windy place and is prone to the influence of weather
systems coming off Greenland so, when looking at synoptic charts, be alert for any sign of a disturbance that might be developing in that
area. I have taken some serious bashings on this passage and as a result tend to be cautious and alert to possible problems. Last season,
even though nothing to cause alarm showed on the websites, a blow came out of nowhere to hit the islands 24 hours before we arrived, while
the worst we had on the passage was around Force 6 from the south-west. That said, the Vestmannaeyjar make for a perfect landfall. As luck has had it, most
of my arrivals have been in the early hours with the sun on the rise, giving a dramatic silhouette to the 18 islets, islands and rocks that make up the archipelago.
is Heimaey, with its outliers of Ellidaey and Bjarnarey clearly visible with deep water between. Heading into the harbour The main and only inhabited island
entrance, be sure to keep the red channel buoy to port to clear lava deposits running from the shore. A breakwater runs from the opposite shore to starboard and shortly
after that is the turn for the inner harbour. The new pontoon on the south side is intended for visitors. If this is congested, tie alongside a moored boat and seek out
the harbourmaster who will find a space for you and contact a customs official on your behalf to arrange clearance to
sail Icelandic waters although, strictly speaking, advance notice of your intentions should have been given to Customs HQ
in Reykjavik well ahead of your expected arrival. Fuel and water can then be arranged, with well-stocked supermarkets nearby to top up stores, albeit at prices
that will make your eyes water.only harbour of significance along the inhospitable south coast of Iceland, is As a port of arrival, Heimaey, the
growing in popularity. Around 50 visiting boats put in there last season – most were German and French, a few Poles, plus a handful of British yachts. Like most
islanders, the locals are resourceful and self-reliant. On the odd occasion when I have needed repair work done to the boat, they have been more than helpful.
a visit to Vestmannaeyjar to provide time for some wonderful cliff walks and visits to I generally allow three days at least forA ship passing the point where lava nearly choked the port