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7VUaH/HYIV\YIn quiet weather make for Cala di Corricella, on the south side of the
fortress headland. Here you can anchor close under the fort, or
further into the bay off the village, whose inner harbour has a simple
rubble breakwater. Corricella is an astonishing cubist extravaganza,
its houses daubed all colours of the rainbow – some boldly bright,
others weathered to faded pastels. It feels out of this world as you
climb through the intricate layers past precarious balconies, rickety
washing lines and tiny terrace gardens. There are restaurants galore,
including the sublimely fi shy La Lampara overlooking the harbour.
ISLAND OF ISCHIA
Close west of Procida, much larger Ischia feels completely different,
its high majestic coast softened by lush vegetation, which thrives on
the fertile volcanic slopes. Fragrant shrubs and vivid wild fl owers
help make Ischia an exotic escapist’s dream far from the cold grey
north. The composer Sir William Walton was one notable escapist
and his charismatic wife Susana established fi ve acres of paradise
gardens at their villa La Mortella, on Ischia’s north-west corner. The
upper level has an open Greek theatre, where summer concerts
enhance the magic of this special place.
Ischia’s main harbour is on the north coast, an almost perfectly
enclosed circular inlet with a narrow entrance gap and a constant
stream of ferries and hydrofoils. Although hectic this port is a must-
see, if only for a passing visit. It has a plush Riviera feel, with yachts
and motor boats in crescent rows and a tangled town looking
typically Italian. A little further west, Casamicciola Harbour is
usually better for a quiet berth. I have a favourite restaurant here
called Cantinando, a few blocks back from the sea on Via Monte della
Misericordia – unassuming suburbia outside, culinary bliss within.
PONTINE ISLANDS
VENTOTENE Twenty miles west of Ischia, Stefano
and Ventotene are the closest islands in the Pontine
group. Stefano is just a circular hump with an old
prison on top, but Ventotene has two harbours on its
north-east side. The older, southern basin is opposite
the village and most attractive. The larger north port
has more space but ferries come and go here. Except in high season the
island is quite peaceful. The village stacks up grandly from the old
Roman harbour and the imposing town hall looks like some colonial
outpost. Bistros abound, but I like Ristorante Da Benito, near the
archaeological museum on Via Pozzillo.
PONZA Four miles long and shaped like a boomerang, this heavenly
island has a strangely weathered coast, which catches light in amazing
ways. Easy to visit, Ponza has a wide harbour bay with various visitor
pontoons around its edge. The village is a patchwork of cubes in
cream and ochre, rising to a bold white lighthouse. The upper slopes
are green with olive groves, citrus trees and rows of vines.
The quays are alive with ferries, hydrofoils and brightly painted
fi shing boats. Although berthing is expensive, it’s worth the price to
experience the daily theatre of the place, from early calm stillness
through to the dusky harbour lights. The island also has several fair-
weather anchorages, especially along its ravishing east shore.
BAY OF GAETA Thirty miles north of Ischia on the mainland coast,
Gaeta is an excellent cruising and winter base within easy reach of
the Gulf of Naples. The marina is tucked behind a steep peninsula,
which has a prominent lighthouse, grandiose fortress and crumbling
old town perched above the cliffs. Backed by hot hills, Gaeta’s mellow
waterfront curves around the bay in warm Italian shades. Glitzy
yachts gleam in the harbour and a leafy promenade tails away north.
I’ve always had a warm welcome at the Base Nautica Flavio Gioia,
an effi cient marina and yard especially sympathetic to visitors.
Director Anna Simeone speaks excellent English and has organised
winter berths here for many UK boat owners. If you are
contemplating a couple of seasons on the Italian west coast, this is an
ideal home from home.PILOTS AND GUIDES
Rod Heikell’s Italian Waters Pilot
is the best reference for cruising
in Campania, from Imray at
£37.50 (www.imray.com).
In the spirit of Capri by Pamela
Fiori is an evocative treat for fans
of this fabled island.The welcoming
waterfront of GaetaThe multicoloured
harbour on PonzaSheer cliffs soar
out of the sea on
Ischia’s coastlineGaeta’s marina is
fl anked by the old townCAMPAGNIA COASTLINE40 JANUARY201 6