Cruising
Greece in crisis, 2015We felt so sad for ordinary folk who continue to open their shops, workshops and restaurants (often with no more than half a dozen
punters) from 9am to 10pm, so unlike those in the post-Olympics bloated civil service who retire at 57 on fat pensions.and this despite them being the folk who must now pick up the Not once was resentment or blame expressed towards us,
tab for the combined ineptitude of their political class and a banking system that during the early noughties was, as we now know, at its most stupid. Personally, I suspect that had Greece entered the Euro 10
years later the situation would have been different. Banking inadequacies would have been exposed, their conduct curtailed, and we – the public – would have been less naïve and trusting. Staffed by professionals more cerebral than the late ‘90s young spivs in suits, the banking community
might, we hope, have matured sufficiently to grasp the cultural difference between a country with a 400-year Ottoman legacy and its post-industrial northern European counterpart.
Palaia EpidavrosThe following day, Day 9, we set off quite late and motored to Palaia (Old) Epidavros. This is not to be confused with ancient
Epidavros (see ‘Hire car connections’), although ancient Epidavros can be visited from here by taxi (30 minutes each way). This is a comprehensive small town that
attracts many Greek holidaymakers. The sea state was notably swelly along the harbour walls, even when conditions were calm. We anchored Moineau in the
north-west corner of the bay in complete calm, just outside the marked bathing area. Here, it remained consistently quieter. OK, there was a 10-minute walk into town, but
that’s a small price for a still night.the harbour wall is punishing: we witnessed this about a week later from our With any northerly blowing into the bay,
hotel room balcony. I empathised with the poor souls aboard as their yachts pitched and bucked pretty much all night long.Irrespective of inland ancient Epidavros,
Palaia Epidavros has archaeology of its own – some of which is underwater. Halfway along the south side of the bay, signs directed us to an amphitheatre and
other excavations: but more fun, perhaps, is the so-called ‘Sunken City’ that we explored during the morning of Day 10. This is about halfway along the next bay
to the south. It’s off the little beach with about six sun umbrellas, its exact location likely to be more clearly identified by an anchored fishing boat with a party of
tourists with mask and snorkels. It’s fair to say one shouldn’t expect too much here, but in about 1m of water there are remains of amphora, part of an ancient road and
many walls standing proud of the bottom by about 0.5m. Vathi (Methana)
Day 10 continued with a passage eastward to Vathi on the Methana Peninsula, this being a landmark peninsular that dominates the Saronic Gulf. There’s a
small harbour with room for up to about 10 yachts at a push, and it shares this with a small local fishing fleet. There are no shops here anymore, not even for bread,
but there are a few pleasant-looking waterfront restaurants. volcanic caldera that our mentor, Rod Clive and Tricia set off on foot to find the
Heikell, informed us was ‘a short distance’ away. Well, let me put it this way – I think they rather wished they hadn’t.Fortunately, I had an cast-iron excuse not
to go – I was on cooking duty that evening and had pressing gastro preparation to attend to – but when our skipper and lady wife returned well over two hours later it
transpired that they still hadn’t reached the caldera, and that was even after hitching a lift from a local for a fair distance. He was on his way home, he told them.
When he reached his house he pointed with a prophetic finger up the steep hill and told them that it would take at least another 45 minutes to get there on foot.
However, by now it was well past yardarm hour, and cold beers and chilled white wine beckoned... Day 11 arrived, and it was time for us to
return to Poros where Janie and I embarked on the second half of our three-week holiday. We were lucky enough to link up with Moineau a couple more times for day
visits, but what followed was essentially the land-based travel part of our holiday. Hire car connections
Car hire varied between depending on car quality. This usually meant that it was more cost-effective than taxis, particularly as a driver might have p35-45 per day,
had to be paid to wait around while we were on site. Perdika aside, here are three opportunities that this cruise offers.For our hire car we went to Galatas, a
town opposite Poros on the mainland. There are two hire companies – Pop’s Cars and Top’s Cars – and they’re within about 100 yards of each other. We based ourselves
for two nights at the waterfront Hotel Maik in Palaia Epidavros, which cost (including en-suite facilities, air con, etc). The restaurant served generous portions of p40 a night
good, authentic Greek cooking – it would have to, with a largely Greek clientele. From here we visited Epidavros and Myceneae.
EpidavrosThis 3rd-4th century BC site contains the best-preserved ancient amphitheatre in the world. With exceptionally good acoustics, it
is also recognised to be one of the best-designed amphitheatres. In ancient times it wasn’t the theatre that was the main feature of the site but its huge complex
Inviting waters – South Angistri Bay opposite Dhoroussa island
Palaea Epidavros Bay – the sheltered anchorage off the swimming zone