Practical Boat Owner - January 2016

PRACTICAL

Wused in an attempt to prevent leaks around the seals. The excess had dried into unsightly dribbles hen I bought my boat, I inherited some rather messy-looking port lights where old sealant compound had been
and lumps, but I was cautious about removing this in case I disturbed the bond and introduced old leaks again. However, the decision was made for me after one particularly choppy
passage when both port and starboard port lights got a right dousing, and over time both let in quite a bit of water. It was time for the old rubber seals to be replaced, and here’s
how I did it.

David Parker describes the process involved in replacing the old rubber seals on his boat’s port lights

Fitting new rubber
port light seals

the side which should come out fi rst.^1 At the top of the frame, locate which side of the pivot pin has a serrated end: this is the inside diameter of the locking hole.^2 Use a small drift to tap out the pin. In this case, I used a cut-down nail which fi tted

case you crack the frame.^3 removed, but do not use excess force in Here the pin can be seen almost fully provide a smooth surface for the new seal.^4 When the opening part of the port light has been removed, clean the frame rim to underneath it to hook it out.^5 Carefully remove the old seal. I used the narrow blade of a craft knife to get

hard spots, but try not to damage it until you are sure that the new seal fi ts.^6 ring and where the rubber has developed You can see the salt deposits on the old suitable solvent. I used isopropanol.^7 Clean out the old sealant and thoroughly remove any grime from the frame with a use too much, otherwise when you screw the port light tight it will all squeeze out again.^8 Put a bead of adhesive sealant in the recess to hold the new ring in place. Don’t

STEPBY

STEP