Practical Boat Owner - January 2016

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Ask the expertsHere’s just a selection of the latest questions from

PBO readers. Email or write to the address on page 5 and our experts will answer your queries

THE PBO EXPERTS To ask a question email [email protected] and include your address. Pictures are helpful

SEA SAFETYWill Stephens is Staff Officer Operations (Coastal

Safety) at the RNLI

CRUISINGStuart Carruthers is the RYA Cruising Manager and has

sailed extensively

SAILSIan Brown of the International OneSails loft group

is an expert on sails

ELECTRICSPaul Holland is chairman of the BMEA and MD of

Energy Solutions (UK)

MASTS & RIGSMike Coates worked in the spar and rigging business for

many years

ENGINESPat Manley is a diesel engine course instructor

and marine author

SURVEY AND CORROSIONColin Brown runs a marine survey and consultancy company,

CB Marine Services

BOAT BUYINGDavid Harding is a regular contributor to PBO: his photo

archive is at http://www.sailingscenes.co.uk

MASTS AND RIGS

BOATBUILDING ENGINES

Q a project boat, and although the necessary work is mainly cosmetic I find that both the I have recently bought a Telstar 26 Mk1 trimaran as
sheet winches have seized.technical information regarding these I want to dismantle them With the absence of any
so I can clean and lubricate the working parts.into them. I've removed the But I can see no way of getting
screw from the centre of the drum thinking that would be all that was necessary but the drum won't budge. I'm reluctant
to use brute force in case I do

Shifting a winchirreparable damage.I also attempted to remove the
circular steel ring from around the handle hole thinking that there may be a circlip underneath. You should be able
to tell from the photographs the type of winches they are.boat – around the early 1970s. They're probably as old as the
Could you advise on the best way to dismantle them?Phil GorryRamsey, Isle of Man
MIKE COATES REPLIES:looks like a Gibb winch and although it’s years since I've^ It

It’s difficult to obtain spares for old Gibb winches

Qcurrently going over the yacht in preparation for next season.At the base of the stanchions I’ve recently bought a 1977 Anderson 22, and we’re
there are varying amounts of spiderweb cracking. I’ll make up new baseplates in stainless steel to replace the steel ones,
but I’d like to know how to seal the cracks before reassembly.from 10mm to 40mm beyond the The cracks extend variously
stanchion bases.TONY DAVIES REPLIES: Rob Henchoz, Suffolk This
is a very common problem and

while the repair is simple the finishing can be a problem owing to the need to match the gelcoat colour. If the boat is painted then

there is no problem – all you need to do is repaint the affected areas.can carefully grind out the cracks Using a Dremel-type tool you

to about 3mm wide and into the lay-up beneath to ensure that the cracks are completely obliterated, then fill with matching gel-coat.

however, is to grind out the whole area using a mini grinder and fill and smooth using either the An altogether better solution,

matching gelcoat or epoxy filler if the area is to be painted.

stripped this type as far I can recall the only way is to dismantle it is to remove the centre screw – which you have done.

draw the drum off the shaft, but This should have allowed you to

it’s obviously seized.with boiling water which may release the corrosion and also You could try repeated dowsings
expand the drum just enough to allow it to pull off the shaft.oil in the handle recess on the top Failing that leaving penetrating
of the winch may eventually release the drum – otherwise its going to have to be brute force.Unfortunately spares are no
longer available for these winches which were discontinued approx 25-30 years ago – unless you happen to drop into a chandler
who has some old stock that he’d be grateful to get rid of!consider replacing with a more It may be that now’s the time to
modern set of winches.
Cracking in gelcoat Q My boat has two stainless steel fuel tanks. At about
90 gallons each, their capacity is more than I need: when I can, I sail without the engine.At the end of the season I top
up the tanks and add diesel fuel treatment. In the spring, I change the filters and check the water bowl on the water filter.
years now without any problem. But while all seems fine, the diesel is now getting pretty old.I have been doing this for nine
condensation without topping up my tanks? Sould I empty them?Is there a way I can prevent David Lines, Cumbria

PAT MANLEY REPLIES: diesel fuel these days is a blend of normal and bio-diesel. Blended fuel keeps nothing like as well as Most

straight diesel and is hygroscopic: it loves taking up water, making it a good medium for growing bugs. I believe the best solution is to

remove your existing 90-gallon tanks and replace them with a single tank of around 40 gallons.If you keep your present setup, I

would at least have the contents of both tanks polished, then keep one empty with the vent blanked off to prevent condensation.

times a year to keep the fuel fresh.You can then top up a couple of

To fill or not to fill