southern boating

marina. Just across the bay is Fort Shirley, a 17th-century
British fortress with a bloody history. It was here in 1802 that
the 8th West Indian Regiment led a disastrous mutiny. The
fort and grounds have been completely restored and a small
museum displays artifacts. Tour the museum, but make sure
to hike among the unrestored ruins behind the fort. Keep a
sharp eye on the forest floor. Fresh rains and burrowing crabs
regularly bring up shards of ceramic and even spent musket
balls and human bones.
Before the British took over Dominica, the Kalinago—
Carib Indians—occupied the island having killed off and
enslaved the original Taino people. The Kalinago held out
for more than two centuries against successive waves of
Spanish, French and British navies sweeping through the

Caribbean, but the last survivors were eventually cornered

here, the last island to be colonized by Europeans. Today,

the last and largest settlement of pure Kalinago—more than

3,000 people—still live in the 4,000-acre Carib Territory, a

hillside, jungle tract of land on the east coast. Visitors who

make the journey there can explore the Kalinago Barana

Autê, an outdoor museum. Spend some time chatting with

the locals and you’re bound to hear amusing stories about

Johnny Depp and the making of the Pirates films. Many of

the Kalinago appear onscreen as extras.

For those willing to venture up into the mountains,

Dominica offers some picturesque adventures. Among

the many waterfalls popular with hikers are Trafalgar

Falls—twin 200-foot falls reachable after a 15-minute hike

Left to right: The leeward coast of Dominica; a purple-throated

hummingbird, one of Dominica's many bird species;

mangoes on a tree; the aptly named sand diver

MARCH 2016 s SOUTHERNBOATING.COM s 87

2015 34’ REGULATOR, TRIPLE 300 YAMAHAS, LOADED, 371K 2016 41' REGULATOR, QUAD YAMAHA 350-HP, T-TOP TOWER 2016 ALBEMARLE 25', W/TWIN YAMAHA 250HP, ASK 159K