Yachting Monthly - April 2016

(Elle) #1

ANCHORAGES


S


t Kilda is not only the largest
gannetry in the world, but also
the westernmost point of the
United Kingdom, 40 miles
out into the Atlantic. Home to
Britain’s tallest cliffs and honoured as a
World Heritage site, it was
considered unsustainable
by its community in 1931,
resulting in evacuation
despite a history of
continuous habitation
for 2,000 years. St Kilda
is not one island but an
archipelago of four islands
and three main outlying
stacs. The group hosts two
anchorages, though only Village Bay is a
decent prospect – Glen Bay on the north
shore of Hirta only deserves consideration
in truly desperate conditions.
St Kilda’s exposed position requires a
determined voyage for any visit, and great
attention has to be paid to the weather
forecast as any east in the wind can make
Village Bay untenable. Returning from one
successful visit, we had a chance meeting
with a yachtsman who had attempted the
passage four times without managing to
land once. Have no doubt, St Kilda is a
destination you have to want to get to,
rather than having a passing whim.
However, once there, the effort is

There is a small concrete pier for landing,
though the swell encourages speed and
agility. The warden requests a VHF radio
call before landing, and may meet you
on the shore to run through the rules,
advice, and current wildlife-watching
opportunities for your stay.
Having slaked your shore-based
appetites, no trip is complete without a
circumnavigation of the archipelago – the
passage beneath the vertical cliffs of the
towering turret of Stac Lee engenders a
true realisation of human insignifi cance.
Visit and be awed. W

The journey to this


anchorage may be


long but the rewards


are great, says Jonty Pearce


rewarded with the most breathtaking
scenery – truly majestic soaring stacs
topped by a host of wheeling gannets akin
to a cloud of giant midges; vertiginous
cliffs dropping straight into the sea
yet teeming with avian activity, and
the haunting ruined village of the lost
community, its roofl ess walls left to the
mercy of the elements. Even the military
missile base is now being dismantled,
leaving the island in the safe custody of
the National Trust for Scotland. Due to
the decommissioning of the missile facility
access to the island pub, The Puff Inn,
ended years ago, although there is still
a shop selling souvenirs,
but not supplies. Neither is
there formal access to water
or showers, though I’m sure
that the former could be
supplied in extremis. Self-
suffi ciency is the byword
here – bear in mind that
the island’s only method of
supply is by landing craft.
The anchorage is on the
main island, Hirta, and the approach
is hazard-free. Sail straight in from the
south-west and enjoy ample room to
anchor in the wide bay. The only caution
is to avoid the beach to the west of the
military buildings, as this is the access
route for the landing craft. Gladly, the
holding is good throughout the bay, and
the shelter fi ne as long as the wind avoids
the east to south-east quadrant. However,
even a moderate northeasterly can still
bluster round the slopes of Oisebhal and
create a disturbance. The best advice is
to pay good attention to the forecast and
get out soon if high winds are forecast –
the nearest safe haven is a day away.

0 1nm

Pier

Lewis

Barra

South
Uist

North Uist

0 20nm

OUTER
HEBRIDES

St Kilda

ST KILDA
(HIRTA)
Village Bay

Sgeir nan
Sgarb

Oc.5s3M

Ldg Lts 270°

2
5

10

Gob an
Duinn

Oc.5s3M

ST KILDA(HIRTA)

Soay

Village
Bay

Glen
Bay

0 1nm

Hirta, St Kilda


PHOTO: ALAMY. CHART: MAXINE HEATH

Looking down on to
the anchorage at
Village Bay

‘Have no doubt,


St Kilda is a


destination


you have to


want to get to’


54 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com APRIL 2016
Free download pdf