Yachting Monthly - April 2016

ANCHORAGES

S

t Kilda is not only the largest

gannetry in the world, but also

the westernmost point of the

United Kingdom, 40 miles

out into the Atlantic. Home to

Britain’s tallest cliffs and honoured as a

World Heritage site, it was

considered unsustainable

by its community in 1931,

resulting in evacuation

despite a history of

continuous habitation

for 2,000 years. St Kilda

is not one island but an

archipelago of four islands

and three main outlying

stacs. The group hosts two

anchorages, though only Village Bay is a

decent prospect – Glen Bay on the north

shore of Hirta only deserves consideration

in truly desperate conditions.

St Kilda’s exposed position requires a

determined voyage for any visit, and great

attention has to be paid to the weather

forecast as any east in the wind can make

Village Bay untenable. Returning from one

successful visit, we had a chance meeting

with a yachtsman who had attempted the

passage four times without managing to

land once. Have no doubt, St Kilda is a

destination you have to want to get to,

rather than having a passing whim.

However, once there, the effort is

There is a small concrete pier for landing,

though the swell encourages speed and

agility. The warden requests a VHF radio

call before landing, and may meet you

on the shore to run through the rules,

advice, and current wildlife-watching

opportunities for your stay.

Having slaked your shore-based

appetites, no trip is complete without a

circumnavigation of the archipelago – the

passage beneath the vertical cliffs of the

towering turret of Stac Lee engenders a

true realisation of human insignifi cance.

Visit and be awed. W

The journey to this

anchorage may be

long but the rewards

are great, says Jonty Pearce

rewarded with the most breathtaking

scenery – truly majestic soaring stacs

topped by a host of wheeling gannets akin

to a cloud of giant midges; vertiginous

cliffs dropping straight into the sea

yet teeming with avian activity, and

the haunting ruined village of the lost

community, its roofl ess walls left to the

mercy of the elements. Even the military

missile base is now being dismantled,

leaving the island in the safe custody of

the National Trust for Scotland. Due to

the decommissioning of the missile facility

access to the island pub, The Puff Inn,

ended years ago, although there is still

a shop selling souvenirs,

but not supplies. Neither is

there formal access to water

or showers, though I’m sure

that the former could be

supplied in extremis. Self-

suffi ciency is the byword

here – bear in mind that

the island’s only method of

supply is by landing craft.

The anchorage is on the

main island, Hirta, and the approach

is hazard-free. Sail straight in from the

south-west and enjoy ample room to

anchor in the wide bay. The only caution

is to avoid the beach to the west of the

military buildings, as this is the access

route for the landing craft. Gladly, the

holding is good throughout the bay, and

the shelter fi ne as long as the wind avoids

the east to south-east quadrant. However,

even a moderate northeasterly can still

bluster round the slopes of Oisebhal and

create a disturbance. The best advice is

to pay good attention to the forecast and

get out soon if high winds are forecast –

the nearest safe haven is a day away.

0 1nm

Pier

Lewis

Barra

South

Uist

North Uist

0 20nm

OUTER

HEBRIDES

St Kilda

ST KILDA

(HIRTA)

Village Bay

Sgeir nan

Sgarb

Oc.5s3M

Ldg Lts 270°

2

5

10

Gob an

Duinn

Oc.5s3M

ST KILDA(HIRTA)

Soay

Village

Bay

Glen

Bay

0 1nm

Hirta, St Kilda

PHOTO: ALAMY. CHART: MAXINE HEATH

Looking down on to

the anchorage at

Village Bay

‘Have no doubt,

St Kilda is a

destination

you have to

want to get to’

54 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com APRIL 2016