Yachting Monthly - April 2016

(Elle) #1

ANCHORAGES


P


ort Gaverne on the north Cornish
coast hides in the shadow of its
famous neighbour next door, the
Port Issac of Doc Martin fame.
Port Issac is a proper harbour
with a couple of breakwaters to offer
shelter, whilst Port Gaverne, just to the
east, has no such luxury, it being just an
open cove. In the past Port Gaverne was
used as a port to export the special slate
from the Delabole Quarry a few miles
inland and a quay was carved out of the
solid rock on the east side of the harbour.
This quay was a drying berth so the
sailing ships loading there had to take a
chance that the weather did not deteriorate
over the tide. For an overnight anchorage
at Port Gaverne where you can remain
afloat you need to stay further out, but
you can find adequate water and still get
the shelter of the cliffs. These cliffs shelve
down fairly steeply but there is a rocky
bottom along both sides of the cove so for
better holding ground on a sandy bottom it
is best to stay in the middle of the channel

The ships coming in for the slate would
bring in the raw materials such as the coal
and limestone and land them into horse-
drawn carts on the beach.
Port Gaverne is not the most sheltered
anchorage on this exposed coast but it
is a rewarding spot for those who want
to find somewhere off the beaten track.
Anchoring here is like turning the clock
back 60 years. W

If you want to find


somewhere off the


beaten track, Dag Pike


recommends this quiet harbour


and navigate in using your sounder.
There are only a few small fishing and
angling boats that operate from Port
Gaverne these days so you should not be
blocking anyone’s passage by anchoring.
With the wind anywhere from the south
round to east there is good shelter, and
even if the wind swings round to the south-
west there should still be adequate shelter
but you may find the swell rolling in
around the headland if it builds up outside.
Ironically, Port Issac cove next door
offers better protection when you anchor
outside the breakwaters but here you
may have a more disturbed night. Port
Gaverne seems to value its peace and
quiet and the local hostelry, the Port
Gaverne Hotel, is located a couple of
hundred yards inland from the beach.
Here you will find good food and drink
but if you want to go really posh then
there is celebrity chef Nathan Outlaw’s
new restaurant conveniently located
between Port Gaverne and Port Issac,
and tere are more pubs in Port Issac.
Landing is by tender on the beach at the
head of the cove and if the tide goes out
when you are ashore, you could have a
long carry to get back to the water. Apart
from the slate quay there are other traces
of Port Gaverne’s seafaring history to
be seen. The original fish cellars and the
kilns where limestone was converted into
lime for the farmers are both still there.

2

4

6

GavernePort
Hotel

Beach

Castle
Rock

Main
Head

PORT
GAVERNE

0 100m

Port Gaverne, Cornwall


Photo: Dag Pike. chart: maxine heath

Port Gaverne
with the old slate
quay on the right

Port
Gaverne

Port Isaac
Padstow

Newquay

CORNWALL

0 10nm

58 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com APRIL 2016
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