Looking out across the
anchorage in Fosse aux Cannons
ANCHORAGES
T
hree miles off the Normandy
coast, in the Baie de Seine, lie
two islands – Île du Large and
Île de Terre. Occupied by the
Royal Navy between 1795 and
1802, gun emplacements were established
and manned by seamen and marines
who bombarded French shipping plying
between Le Havre and Barfl eur.
The islands were returned to the French
under the Treaty of Amiens in 1802.
To ensure the British could never again
occupy them, Napoleon I built a massive
fortress on Île du Large with heavy gun
emplacements surrounded by a moat
and a tiny harbour where supplies for the
garrison could be offl oaded.
Nowadays the uninhabited Îles St
Marcouf provide a popular daytime
anchorage. They are just seven miles
south-east of St-Vaast-la-Hougue on the
east side of the Cherbourg peninsula.
Yachts at St Vaast can leave the marina
when the gates open and return fi ve hours
harbour in a dinghy at half-tide or above.
Les Amis de l’Île du Large, who have been
given permission to restore some of the
fortress, discourage landing here, warning
it is dangerous to attempt to explore the
fortress. Keeping our boat at nearby
Carentan, we are still regular visitors. The
last time we were here, there was a rally
of French yachts rafted up together in the
anchorage. Spotting our Red Ensign, their
crews stood up to give us a rousing rendition
of our national anthem, followed by three
cheers for the Queen who had just attended
ceremonies nearby to commemorate the
70th anniversary of D-Day. W
David Jefferson
suggests anchoring
off a great crumbling
granite fortress in the
Baie de Seine, Normandy
later before the gates close, having sailed
over to the islands and perhaps dropped
anchor for a leisurely lunch.
The approaches to the islands are
simpler than charts may suggest. From
the south, shape a course to enter the
Fosse aux Cannons between the two
islands. Approaching from St-Vaast and
the north, identify the south cardinal mark
on a concrete base at the end of Rocher
d’Orvry, which is connected to Île du
Large. Aim to pass midway between Île de
Terre to starboard and the Rocher d’Orvry
mark to port. Anchor in the Fosse aux
Cannons 100m off Île du Large’s shingle
beach. As the tide drops revealing Rocher
d’Orvry, anchored boats are protected
from northerlies and from the current,
which rarely exceeds two knots in the Baie
de Seine. Other anchorages are off the
southern end of Île du Large or off Île de
Terre where landing is strictly forbidden as
it is a bird sanctuary. None of the Marcouf
anchorages are protected from southerlies.
Years ago, having read in a back-issue
of Yachting Monthly that there was 5ft of
water in the postage-stamp sized harbour
at MLWS, I decided to spend the night
here, dropping anchor in the centre of the
harbour and running a stern rope round
the muzzle of an old cannon sunk into the
harbour wall. A restless night involved twice
having to move the boat to avoid settling on
fallen masonry as the tide dropped.
These days you can only enter the
INSET PHOTO: DAVID DAGUIER/CONSEIL DÉPARTEMENTAL DE LA MANCHE. CHART: MAXINE HEATH
58 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com MARCH 2016
ÎLES
ST MARCOUF
Île du
Fort Large
Île de Terre
Rocher
Bastin
Fosse aux Cannons
Rocher
d’Orvry
(^16)
2
3
5
5 10
10
10
5
3
3
3
5
(^18)
(^03)
0 500m
Chart not to
be used for
navigation
Main
anchorage
Channel Is.
Cherbourg St-Vaast-la-Hougue
Carentan
ILES ST
MARCOUF
FRANCE
Îles St Marcouf
The fort built by
Napoleon I on
Île du Large
PHOTO: PHILIPPE MOREL