ShowBoats International — May 2017

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harbor resources manager Chris Miller in

advance ([email protected]).

Boating in this town is an aquatic version of

the Hollywood homes tour. “We’re coming up on

Shirley Temple’s home here, with the little green

shutters and the brown shingle. It’s the kind of

little cottage you imagine she would live in,” says

Carolyn Clark, of Newport at Your Feet tours,

before pointing out Nicolas Cage’s more modern

home. “This, right here, the sandy bluffs, that’s

where they filmed Cleopatra,” she continues,

and “this rocky corner – when Disney was making Peter

Pan, the animators came and sketched this area for the

Mermaid’s Lagoon and Pirate’s Cove.” This legacy is

celebrated each year during the Newport Beach Film

Festival, this year held from April 20 to 27.

From here, yachties can sail north to Long Beach,

south to San Diego – or further south to Mexico. Each

year the Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race

(this year April 28 to 30) speeds to the first town over the

border. But the classic destination from Newport Beach

is Santa Catalina Island, four to four and a half hours

by sail, or 15 minutes by helicopter from the mainland.

“There are little anchorages with only two or three boats,

for example White’s Cove,” says David Shockley, former

commodore of the Newport Ocean Sailing Association.

“The isthmus is interesting too – during the Civil War

there was a barracks there. It’s primitive but there’s

sightseeing and some hikes.”

Most of the 75 square mile island is controlled by the

Catalina Island Conservancy, with bison roaming the

grasslands and Catalina orangetip butterflies fluttering

about the coastal sage scrub and eucalyptus. And it is

a natural film set. More than 225 movies have been filmed

here since 1911 and its varied topography has doubled as

Tahiti, North Africa, the American frontier, and the lost

city of Atlantis, while Jaws has patrolled its waters. Many

of the actors who came for work stayed for pleasure –

Chaplin and Goddard enjoyed angling for marlin and

tuna around the island, while James Cagney anchored

his yacht in Descanso Bay, where there’s now a smart

beach club with live music and DJs on summer weekends.

Joan Crawford, Clark Gable, Betty Grable, and Norma

Shearer came for the social scene.

Those sailing by today can stop at the Bluewater Grill,

overlooking the harbor in the little town of Avalon. It is

a local favorite for simple

but pristinely fresh fish.

The lemon pepper mahi

mahi and the Alaskan

king crab are worth

mooring up for.

A cruise back to the mainland and south leads past the

wealthy neighborhood of Corona del Mar and its famous

surfing beach to Crystal Cove State Park’s 3.2 miles of

immaculate coastline. Within this, the historic district is a

scattering of vintage 1920s coastal cottages for rent – with

their colorful clapboards, it feels as if Marilyn Monroe

circa 1946 might appear in a doorway and invite you in

for margaritas. When you’re in need of refreshments the

humble sounding Beachcomber café is just as much of

a historical landmark. Breakfasts are a thing of legend –

particularly the coconut macadamia pancakes

and steak chilaquiles, and there is an entire

sub-menu for “benedict addicts.”

A short stroll inland – and you’ll need it – lies

Pelican Hill, a resort that is among the most

exclusive addresses in the US. It’s also a great

stop for smart seadogs who want a night or

two on solid ground and is a firm favorite with

celebrities: David Spade, Greg Kinnear, and

Sofia Vergara are the latest batch to check in.

The architecture is Palladian, partially in

sympathy with the area’s Mediterranean

climate, and the landscape is studded

with cypress and sevillano olive trees. The

restaurant Andrea, looking out to sea, has

2,000 bottles in its wine collection and serves

VOYAGE

Newport Beach has been home to (clockwise from top)

beachgoers, Peter Pan, filmmakers, Shirley Temple and the

clifftop millionaires of Corona del Mar

Marilyn Monroe on

Catalina Island

in the 1940s.

Right: water-side

homes in

Newport Beach

Newlyweds Joan Crawford

and Douglas Fairbanks Jr

on Catalina Island. Inset:

murals inside the Catalina

Casino in Avalon. Right: the

pool at Pelican Hill

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES

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