In practice, short stays in remote anchorages
such as the Ninigo islands, are tolerated for
small yachts prior to checking in when the area
is distant from any port of entry. Take care to
check with the latest security warnings about
entry ports as some have reported incidences
of robberies on the PNG mainland. Ninigo is
absolutely safe; you are treated like honoured
guests there.
An AIS tranceiver is a good tool to have
aboard, as shipping between the South Pacific
and Asia passes through this area. Purse seiners
as a rule do not transmit AIS signals, until they
are right on top of you, but at night you can see
the glow for miles.
There are four main passages into the Ninigo
lagoon: two nearby to Longan Island, one north
and one west; one south of Lau Island on the
southwest corner; and the eastern passage.
Locals assure us the eastern passage is suitable
for keelboats but we did not confirm this.
Most of the smaller atolls have no entrance,
though Heina does and one of the local families
assured us the channel is still marked. Waypoints
for Heina can be obtained on the Noonsite website.
We entered the SW passage near Mal Island
and departed the passage to the north of Longan
at the end of our stay. Neither was hazardous.
We made and used geo-referenced satellite
raster chartlets to define our routes into the
lagoon and to navigate around the multitude
of shallows inside. The programs we used were
GE2K AP and SASPlanet.
The key yacht contact at Ninigo is Oscar
Sinapling on Longan Island, he has the PNG
Tourism Board yacht book. He is responsible for
co-ordinating dive and snorkelling. A modest
Kina$10 fee is charged by the PNG government
per person per dive, snorkelling is free.
There is no way to reach Oscar ahead of time.
Michael Tahalam is also an important
contact. He is a ward councillor and can be
reached on the public telephone at The Station
at Mal Island; telephone, when it is working:
+675 276 4542.
Michael can answer pre-arrival questions
such as what items might be most needed by the
islanders. Fear not to bring items of some value,
for instance: copper or stainless steel nails,
exterior or marine paint or small amounts of
resin and hardener needed for canoes, handheld
GPS units, binoculars, etc. Islanders are willing
to pay you appropriately in Kina for goods.
Thomas Ailis and family at Puhipi village
on Mal have been called the 'ambassadors' of
Ninigo. Expect a visit from Tom; he will likely
bring Elizabeth, his wife and a gift of a western
islands woven hat.
Great donations to pack aboard include:
clothing, children’s clothing especially;
sunglasses, polarising is best; reading glasses;
solar lights; popcorn; brown rice; spices; 3-in-1
coffee; children’s books; hand tools such as small
axes, hand drills sharpening stones, kitchen
knives; soap; toothpaste and toothbrushes;
wound-care supplies; school supplies 2.5 inch
to 3 inch copper roofing nails; good quality
woven plastic tarps for making sails; hand sew
sailmaker thread and needles; three strand or
braided line, polypropylene is okay, in sizes
from 5mm to 19mm. ≈
RIGHT: The
friendly beautiful
people of Ninigo.
72
Cruising Helmsman June 2017
DESTINATION
SE ASIA
In 2003, Philip and Leslie retired from
demanding corporate careers and set
sail from Kingston Washington in the
USA on an open-ended voyage aboard
Carina, their Mason 33 cutter-rigged
sailboat. They have travelled now for
over thirteen years and logged 35,000+
nautical miles. With hundreds of friends
made in dozens of different countries,
their love of this unique and challenging
lifestyle has never diminished. They are
currently anchored at Pohnpei Island
in the Federated States of Micronesia.
http://www.sv-carina.org.
LESLIE LINKKILA,
PHILIP DINUOVO
“DRAT, NOSERLIES,” MUTTERED LESLIE,
“MAYBE IT’S TIME TO MOTOR.”