dining^
Restaurants
World Food by Ducasse
Ever aspiring to become the ultimate arbiter of French
gastronomy, culinary entrepreneur Alain Ducasse has
just opened Spoon 2, a new version of his original “World
Food” restaurant, at the Palais Brogniart, the old Paris
stock exchange in the heart of the city. The idea here is to
present the latest taste sensations Ducasse has discovered
during his non-stop travels to the most remote corners of
the world.
The menu here weighs heavily towards Asia, with dishes
like shrimp cake, katsuobushi, an irresistibly delicious
canapé of shrimp paste on fried toast with bonito flakes,
several Thai salads, steam shrimp dumplings or poke-
and-cabbage wontons, Thai-style prawn red curry and a
Japanese dish of beef with green peppers. Other kitchens
also get a look in, as seen in a clever dish of chilli sin carne
beignet, golden spheres filled with bean chilli with sides
of salsa verde and hot pepper sauce and Key Lime pie,
a delicious American dessert made with the tiny citrus
grown in the Florida Keys. – Alexander LobranoSpoon 2
28 Place de la Bourse (2nd), 01 83 92 20 30Contemporary French Fare
Les Halles, or the old market district in the heart of Paris, has become
one of the most interesting restaurant neighbourhoods in the French
capital, and if there’s a table not to miss it’s Pirouette. This friendly duplex
bistro serves excellent contemporary French cooking from a chalkboard
menu that changes regularly to follow the seasons and present the
latest creations of young Normandy-born chef François-Xavier Ferrol.
Highlights of a spectacular recent meal here included starters of “bon-
bons” of Jerusalem artichoke in truffled poultry jus and cooked and
raw beetroot with burrata in duck bouillon. Mains were intriguing and
deeply satisfying as well with the cod cooked en papillotte with coconut
milk and Thai green curry with smoked vegetables being at once earthy
and elegant, while veal sweetbreads with broccoli and a Xeres vinegar-
spiked peanut sauce was brilliant modern French soul food. Desserts
are excellent, too, with the standout being cardamom cream with pear
ice-cream, a green tea wafer and a financier biscuit. The restaurant offers
an excellent wine list and is very popular, so book well in advance. – A.L.Pirouette
Pirouette © Aimery CheminSpoon 2 © Pierre Monetta; Pirouette © Aimery Chemin 5 Rue Mondétour (1st), 01 40 26 47 81
http://www.wheretraveler.com 89