TRAVEL+LEISURE / MARCH 2016BOTTOM: ELEONORA GRECO
Petit Royal Restaurant, inside Hotel Royale
Golf, is typically like the valley’s other 5-star
establishments; welcoming and unpretentious.
But its Michelin star is no accident. Chef Maura
Gosio’s scampi tempura, turbot and caviar
parmigiana and crème brûlée are the stuff of
modern legend. Another restaurant that is a
luscious Italian dreams is Chiecco—try ravioli
stuff ed with ricotta and herbs, tuna fi let with lime
and ginger, and ragù of wild boar with polenta.
Au Coeur des Neiges, a luxury chalet lodge,
features individual residences togged out in earthy
comforts. It’s the sort of rustic-luxe Alpine design
where you can imagine Giorgio Armani would
escape to hide from the paparazzi; to lie back by
the hot tubs and ponder his Autumn Winter 2016
line, while staring out at the honey-hued, sunset-
tinged Mont Blanc, while his personal butler
rustles up a fashionably lean dinner and a bunch
of models hang out, discussing ski plans.
It’s that picture of Aosta Valley—awash in
understated oomph—that implants itself in my
memory, interrupted by shots of a potent local
poison, an Italian absinthe called génépy, and the
magical Monte Bianco.THE DETAILS
GETTING THERE
Take the Turkish Airlines from Mumbai or Alitalia from Delhi to
Milan. Then, rent a car for the 2-hour drive to Courmayeur.
STAY
Villa Novecento (alpissima.it) in Courmayeur is ideally located
in the city centre and has comfortable rooms with great food.
Hotel Duca D'Aosta in Aosta city is a chic mid-budget hotel
with a great French brasserie and a cosy lounge.
DO
Heliski (heliskicervinia.com) in the Aosta Valley. Chart the
Aosta wine route (routedesvinsvda.it) sampling local Pinot
Grigio, Pinot Noir and Petit Rouge on the way. Hire a vintage
bike and ride through the scenic Gressoney Valley.
VISIT
The medieval Fenis castle (fenisweb.it) is a modern-day fairyland.
Comic book geeks must visit Forte Di Bard (fortedibard.it) where
the movie Avengers—Age of Ultron was shot.
SHOP
In Courmayeur, pick up souvenirs like grollas (vertical wooden
chalices) and Friendship Cups with multiple spouts, in which
Italians share caffè alla valdostana with friends. Chat Noir at the
Piazza della Repubblica in Aosta city stocks young designer labels.
EAT/DRINK
Spend an afternoon over coffee at Caffe della Posta in
Courmayeur before snacking on local Fontina and Fromadzo
cheeses. Chiecco Restaurant (chiecco.com) is famous for its
ricola-stuffed ravioli. Osteria dell'Oca (ristoranteosteriadelloca.
com) in Aosta serves a superb veal stew.