Lonely Planet Asia - June 2016

AMERICAN ROCKIES

GREAT ESCAPE

GREAT ESCAPEGREAT ESCAPE

compacted. The Mormons who settled here
liked to group together, unlike the doggedly
independent ranchers elsewhere in the
valley. Even so, it must have been a harsh
existence. Back on the highway, the road
surface shimmers with the surrounding
white expanse in a winter mirage.
Only 12 miles to the south, some quirk
of geography has kept the plain free of
snow. Generations of elk have migrated
here each winter. They used to go further,
but the town of Jackson now stands in
their way. Back in 1912, the townspeople
were worried the elk would no longer be
able to survive, and established the
National Elk Refuge. Today it covers
nearly 25,000 acres, and provides space
for a few thousand wintering elk.
The refuge’s caretakers lead visitors out
on horse-drawn sleigh trips, or when there
is no snow cover, by cart: lone standing
figures would spook the herd, but they don’t
really know what to make of the combined

silhouette of cart, horses and humans.

Driving the cart today is Justin Jackson, of

Jackson Hole, who sports a waxed, curl-

tipped moustache that gets frost-covered on

particularly wintry days. He calls to the

horses: ‘Ginger, Bruno, step up!’

Justin steers the wagon across a small

bridge over a stream, watched by four bald

eagles in a nearby tree, and to the outskirts

of the thousand-strong elk herd. Some of

the males engage in desultory sparring,

antlers clacking together. ‘A few weeks

ago, I saw a large bull swishing his antlers

back and forth to flick water on his back,’

says Justin. ‘It was very cool – the first time

I’d ever seen that. They’re normally

creatures of habit.’

At the end of winter, the elk shed their

antlers. The refuge managers collect them to

sell at auction in May; a particularly fine set

can fetch up to US$30 a pound. Thus, the

elk help support themselves financially.

And in Jackson, at each corner of the central

town square stands an arch, made of 2,000

antlers woven together. The elk may no

longer graze here, but their presence is still

felt.

The road beyond Flagg Ranch, at the northern end

of Grand Teton National Park, is closed to regular

traffic: join a snowcoach tour to continue onwards

into the heart of Yellowstone (details on p51).

Wintering elk in the National

Elk Refuge, north of Jackson.

LEFT Justin Jackson leads

horse-drawn wagon or sleigh

rides into the elk refuge At The Rusty Parrot in Jackson, paintings of

frontier scenes line the landing above a tea and

coffee lounge where squashy armchairs face a log

fire. Guestrooms also have individual fireplaces.

A hot tub stands on the raised deck outside, and

the restaurant does elegant takes on American

breakfast classics (from US$255; rustyparrot.com).

A seven-day car permit for Grand Teton

National Park costs US$30, although there are

no ticket booths along the park’s portion of

Highway 26 (nps.gov/grte). Sleight rides at the

elk refuge cost US$19pp (fws.gov/refuge/

national_elk_refuge). Read up on the area at

jacksonholechamber.com.

Essentials

AMERICAN ROCKIES