Lonely Planet Asia - June 2016

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MINI GUIDE

Eating and drink-

ing in Stockholm

Splash out in one of eight Michelin-starred

restaurants, experience husmanskost

(Swedish home cooking) and enjoy the city’s

café culture.

Tall buildings surround the

central square of Stortorget

Café

High-end Swedish

ERIKS GONDOLEN

Perched above Slussen, atop

the 1930s Katarinahissen lift,

this place is known for top-notch

Swedish food, refined service,

perfect cocktails and views of the

lovely Stockholm skyline. There’s

a formal dining room or you can

keep it a little more casual in the

bar area. Try the shellfish platter

or dishes such as lamb with baked

celeriac and chanterelles (eriks.se;

Stadsgården 6; mains from US$25).

OPERAKÄLLAREN

Inside Stockholm’s show-off

Opera House, the century-old

Operakällaren is a major

gastronomic event. Decadent

chandeliers, golden mirrors,

panelled walls and exquisitely

carved ceilings set the scene for

French-meets-fusion adventures

such as butter-baked Arctic char

with almond crisp, mushroom

duxelles and beurre blanc

(operakallaren.se; Karl XII’s

Torg 10; closed Sun & Mon and

mid-Jul–mid-Aug; tasting menu

from US$160).

MATHIAS DAHLGREN

Celebrity chef Mathias

Dahlgren has settled in at the

Grand Hôtel with a two-sided

restaurant: the formal Matsalen

(Dining Room), which has been

awarded two Michelin stars,

and the bistro-style Matbaren

(Food Bar), with its own

Michelin star. Both restaurants

focus on seasonal ingredients

• expect the likes of black
  truffle pizza (mdghs.se; Grand
  Hôtel, Södra
  Blasieholmshamnen 6;
  Matsalen dinner Tue–Sat;
  Matsalen tasting menu US$217).

VURMA

Squeeze in among the locals at

this friendly café-bakery, a

reliably affordable place to get a

healthy and substantial meal in

an unfussy setting. The salads

and sandwiches are inspired,

with ingredients such as

halloumi, falafel, salmon,

avocado and quinoa or pasta.

The homemade bread that

comes with your order is a

particular highlight (vurma.se;

Gästrikegatan 2; sandwiches

from US$5.80).

ROSENDALS

TRÄDGÅRD

Set among the greenhouses of a

botanical garden, Rosendals is an

idyllic spot for pastries and

coffee, or a meal and a glass of

wine. Lunch includes organic

delights such as a ground-lamb

burger with chanterelles. Much of

the produce is biodynamic and

grown on site (rosendalstradgard.

se; Rosendalsterrassen 12;

Tue–Sun 11am–4pm most

months, see full hours online;

mains from US$10.15).

CHOKLADKOPPEN

Arguably Stockholm’s best-

loved café, hole-in-the-wall

Chokladkoppen sits slap bang

on the old town’s enchanting main

square, Stortorget. It’s a gay-

friendly spot, with cute waiters, a

look-at-me summer terrace and

dishes such as broccoli-and-blue-

cheese pie and scrumptious cakes.

The hot chocolate is simply divine

(chokladkoppen.se; Stortorget 18;

cakes from US$4.35).

KRYP IN

Small but perfectly formed, this

spot wows with creative takes on

traditional Swedish dishes. Expect

the likes of salmon carpaccio or

smoked reindeer salad followed by

a spirit-warming saffron aioli

shellfish stew. The service is

seamless and the atmosphere

classy without being stuffy. The

brief weekend lunch menu is a

bargain (restaurangkrypin.se;

Prästgatan 17; mains from US$22).

THE VERANDA

Head inside the Grand Hôtel

for the famous smörgåsbord,

especially over Christmas, when

it becomes even more elaborate.

Arrive early for a window seat

and tuck into Swedish staples,

such as gravadlax with almond

potatoes, herring, meatballs and

lingonberry jam. It’s like a

belt-busting crash course in

classic Nordic flavours

(grandhotel.se; Grand Hôtel,

Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8;

smörgåsbord US$55).

TRANAN

Locals pack this former beer

hall, now a comfy but classy

neighbourhood bistro with

a seafood-heavy menu and

red-checked tablecloths.

The food combines Swedish

husmanskost with savvy Gallic

touches; don’t miss the fried

herring. At the weekends, DJs

and live bands perform in the

popular basement bar (tranan.

se; Karlbergsvägen 14; evenings

only; mains from US$21.75).

The service is impeccable at

Operakällaren

Chokladkoppen is a popular

locale in the heart of Stockholm

The buffet at the Veranda where

smörgåsbord is served

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