Clockwise from
top left:Seashell
sculpture at the
Stream’s start;
Jongno Tower;
Cheonggyecheon
at night; and
Dongdaemun
Design Plazabusinesstraveller.asia JUNE 2016
of the water, with thin trunks and drooping branches
that resemble weeping willows, while farther on cherry
trees blossom in floral splendour.
The second bridge, Gwangtonggyo, uses great
granite blocks, Stonehenge style, some with ancient
carvings of clouds and Buddhist symbols. After that
comes Gwanggyo bridge, across which a busy road
carries incessant lines of traffic. Turn left and one block
north is a large crossroads with two classic examples of
ancient and modern Korean architecture: Bosingak is
a beautiful old bell tower whose 15th-century bell was
used to signal the opening and closing of Seoul’s four
great gates, whilst directly across the road rises Jongno
Tower, a triangular glass and steel edifice topped by a
“floating”oval summit. One of the most distinctive
modern buildings in Seoul, it is owned by Samsung,
one of Korea’s greatchaebolconglomerates (others
include Hyundai, LG, Hanwha and Lotte) that still
wield great economic power in the country through
diversified holdings in a wide range of industries.
Turn south from Gwanggyo and you are quickly
engulfed in the shopping mania that is Myeongdong,
Seoul’s tourist retail district and one of its busiest
precincts. The warren of small streets is packed with
brand outlets and souvenir stalls, and cars can struggle
to get through the crowds as people wander, bags in
hand, looking for their next purchase.
Back in the peaceful environment of Cheonggyecheon,
an art display of local students’ work lines the wall under
a bridge. Between the bridges, stepping stones cross
the Stream – a fine source of youthful high jinx and
photo ops – and dozens of small rapids provide a restful
soundtrack that cannot completely drown out the sound
of the busy city above, but allow a sense of detachment
from that world and communion with nature.
A tiled mural on the left bank shows King Jeongjo- the 22nd monarch of the Joseon dynasty – travelling
in procession with his mother Queen Hyegyeonggung
Hong to Hwaseong (modern-day Suwon) to the
tomb of his father in 1795. The mural was donated
by Shinhan Bank, whose head office stands proudly
nearby. Established in 1897 as the Hansung Bank, it led
the financial modernisation of Korea.
North of this section is Insadong, Seoul’s arts
and crafts district, where traditional restaurants and
teahouses share the alleyways with art galleries and
more souvenir stalls than you can shake a stick at.
Samil-gyo is the beginning of the end of the CBD’s
skyscrapers; from here to Dongdaemun the Stream is
flanked by low-rise buildings. In the water 3-4lb
carp and a host of other species swim, preyed upon by
herons and other fishing birds. The water is crystal clear
and not a single item of rubbish lies on the ground.
Now you pass the labyrinthine covered markets of
Gwangjang and Dongdaemun markets, whose stalls
are stuffed with household items, foodstuffs, trinkets
and much more.
I start at Cheonggye Plaza, a modest square that backs
onto the broad south-north boulevard from Seoul Plaza
up to Gwanghwamun Square and Gyeongbokgung
Palace – the main home of the Joseon dynastic rulers
and arguably Seoul’s most impressive palace. Down this
wide road great processions of courtiers and soldiers
would accompany the king to or from the South Gate...
today it leads down to City Hall, Seoul Plaza and some
of Seoul’s top hotels (more of which later).
In the square stands a spiralling statue that could
be a seashell or a unicorn’s horn. Above it rises the
rectangular block of the Seoul Finance Centre. The
Stream begins in style, with a three-metre waterfall that
is backlit in various colours at night. A wishing well
close to the first bridge tempts visitors to toss coins –
all for a good cause, as the money is collected regularly
and given to charity. Although primarily a concrete
park, as you progress eastwards trees line both sides
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