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Budget

Mauritius

The priciest spots on this dream island are by its

sapphire waters and white-sand beaches, but

this means the real Mauritius of hot curry,

fishing villages and hiking trails is going cheap.

Le Morne peak in the

southwest of Mauritius

Food

Activities Sights

A wild expanse of hills, trees and

waterfalls, this national park is

the last stand for Mauritian

forests and many native species,

such as the Mauritius kestrel, the

echo parakeet and the pink

pigeon – which are all

endangered (Black River Gorges

Visitors Centre: 7am–5pm Mon–

Fri, from 9am Sat–Sun; Le Pétrin

Information Centre 7am–3.15pm

Mon–Fri).

In Mauritius’s southeast corner,

the town of Mahébourg anchors

a series of islands, including Île

aux Aigrettes, popular for boat

trips and snorkelling excursions.

Local legend Jean-Claude Farla is

a six-time national swimming

champion who also competed in

the Indian Ocean Games. He is

the only person to offer sailing

trips on a traditional 22ft pirogue,

and his trips are reasonable at

just US$27 for a half-day trip (00

230 5937 0503/00 230 5631

7090).

GARDEN TOURING

After Kew, the Sir Seewoosagur

Ramgoolam Botanical Garden

at Pamplemousses is one of the

world’s best. The centrepiece of

the gardens is a pond filled with

giant Victoria amazonica water

lilies, and there’s an astonishing

abundance of palms and variety

of birdlife. Labelling of the plants

is a work in progress, so hire one

of the knowledgeable guides who

wait just inside the entrance to

show you around; it only costs an

extra US$1.25 (8.30am–5.30pm;

admission US$6).

DOMAINE

When travellers ask where to go

in Grand Baie to savour some

Mauritian home cooking, locals

invariably say Domaine. Prices

are low and the best dishes are

the local specialities, such as

ourite au safran (octopus cooked

in ginger, garlic and turmeric)

and chilli lamb (00 230 263

5286; Narainen St, Upper Vale,

The Vale; 5pm–11pm Mon,

11am–11pm Tue–Sun; mains

from US$4).

PALAIS DE BARBIZON

In the tiny hamlet of Chamarel,

Barbizon may not look much but

it’s a fabulous place. Marie-Ange

helms the kitchen, whipping up

traditional flavours from her

family’s cookbook while Rico

L’Intelligent entertains at the

tables. There’s no menu; instead,

Rico offers a feast of rum punch,

rice, veggies, and fish or chicken

for just US$12.50. It’s the best

money you’ll spend (00 230 483

5078; Route Sainte-Anne;

noon–4pm).

Port Louis’ rightly famous Central

Market is a good place to get a

feel for Mauritian life. Most

authentic are the fruit and

vegetable sections. Grab a

breakfast of French pastries or

spicy dhal puri, which you can eat

standing alongside locals who’ve

paused for a bite on their way to

work, before exploring the ornate

Victorian halls (5.30am–5.30pm

Mon–Sat, to 11.30pm Sun).

The main attraction here is the

reconstruction of a dodo, which

was native to Mauritius. Scottish

scientists assembled the bird in

the 19th century, using the only

complete dodo skeleton found.

There’s also a collection of stuffed

endemic birds, including the red

rail and solitaire, also extinct (00

230 212 0639; La Chaussée, Port

Louis; 9am–4pm Mon–Fri; free).

BELLE MARE BEACH

Mauritius’s wild east coast is

where you’ll find some of the

best white sand and azure

ocean on the island: north of

Trou d’Eau Douce as far as

Pointe de Flacq, the six-mile-

long beach of Belle Mare is

home to an impregnable string

of luxury resorts but also

a few stretches of public beach

for budget day-trippers,

including those you’ll find at

around three miles and five

miles north of Trou d’Eau

Douce.

Giant water lilies in the botanical

gardens at Pamplemousses

Fresh local produce for sale at

Port Louis Central Market

A sandy path beside Belle Mare

beach on Mauritius’s east coast

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MINI GUIDE

The shrine of Catholic priest and

missionary Père Jacques-Désiré

Laval is something of a Lourdes

of the Indian Ocean. The

Frenchman is credited with

converting 67,000 people to

Christianity during his 23 years in

Mauritius. Notice the plaster

effigy of the priest on top of the

tomb – it’s been rubbed smooth

by miracle-seeking pilgrims.

Services are held at 1pm and

5pm on Fridays (00 230 242

2129; Cité La Cure, Port Louis;

free).

PORT LOUIS CENTRAL

MARKET

HIKING THE BLACK

RIVER GORGES

SAILING &

SNORKELLING

NATURAL HISTORY

MUSEUM & INSTITUTE

PÈRE LAVAL’S SHRINE