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Eating
in Madrid
Madrid has become one of Europe’s culinary
capitals and its atmospheric barrios are
crammed with taverns, tapas bars and world-
class restaurants beloved by locals.
The Mercado de
San Miguel is one of
Madrid’s oldest markets
Tapas
Local specialities Fine-dining
Most restaurants surrounding
Plaza Mayor are tourist traps,
but long-running Los Galayos, in
the plaza’s southeastern corner,
is an exception. It’s a good place
to sample traditional cooking
from around Spain, such as
cocido madrileño, a kind of
hearty meat and chickpea stew
(losgalayos.net; Calle de
Botoneros, 5; 1pm–midnight;
mains from US$12.50).
CASA PACO
The gaily painted exterior of
this old Madrid tavern near
Plaza Mayor, which opened in
1933, is hard to miss and the
food is even harder to resist,
especially the local Madrid
specialities – callos, cocido and
steak. The bar area, its walls
lined with portraits of celebrity
patrons, is also a good place for
tapas or a wine
(casapaco1933.es; Plaza de
Puerta Cerrada, 11; 1–4pm &
8pm–midnight Mon–Sat,
1–4pm Sun; mains from US$11).
CASA JULIO
Croquetas (croquettes) are one of
Madrid’s best-loved tapas and
Casa Julio’s version is among the
city’s greatest. They’re that good
that celebrities and mere mortals
from all over Madrid flock to this
bar in Malasaña, along with loyal
locals. The place acquired a bit
of a celebrity status when U2 did
a photo shoot here some years
ago (00 91 522 72 74; Calle de
la Madera, 37; 1–3.30pm &
6.30–11pm Mon–Sat, closed Aug;
6/12 croquetas US$5/10).
ALMENDRO 13
La Latina is Madrid’s best barrio
(district) for tapas. Head to the
streets around Calle de la Cava
Baja. Here you’ll find Almendro
13, a charming tavern where locals
queue for traditional tapas with an
emphasis on quality rather than
frilly presentation
(almendro13.com; Calle del
Almendro, 13; 1–4pm & 7.30pm–
midnight Mon–Fri, 1–5pm & 8pm–
1am Sat & Sun; tapas from US$4).
One of Madrid’s most beautiful
markets, the Mercado de San
Miguel has undergone a major
renovation and is now an inviting
space strewn with tables. The
stalls are outstanding and you
can order tapas and more
substantial plates at most of the
bar-counters
(mercadodesanmiguel.es; Plaza
de San Miguel; 10am–midnight
Sun–Wed, 10am–2am Thu–Sat;
tapas from US$1).
CASA REVUELTA
Early on a Sunday afternoon
Casa Revuelta, near Plaza Mayor,
is packed and lively. Some of
Madrid’s finest tapas are served
here, and it’s famous for the
callos (tripe), torreznos (bacon
bits) and albóndigas (meatballs).
Its tajadas de bacalao (battered
cod) are the best in town (00 91
366 33 32; Calle de Latoneros, 3;
10.30am–4pm & 7–11pm Tue–
Sat, 10.30am–4pm Sun, closed
Mon & month of Aug; tapas from
US$2.50).
CASA LUCIO
Lucio in La Latina has wowed
madrileños with his home-style
cooking since 1974. Eggs and
roasted meats are his speciality,
and the guisos del día (stews of the
day), are also popular. Casa Lucio
draws a well-dressed crowd that
has included the former king of
Spain, Bill Clinton and Penélope
Cruz (casalucio.es; Calle de la Cava
Baja, 35; 1–4pm & 8.30pm–
midnight, mains from US$17).
ARRIBA
Up on the 1st floor of the Platea
development, this restaurant by
the two-Michelin-starred chef
Ramón Freixa has a bistro feel,
with a what’s-fresh-in-the-
market approach to cooking
and dishes whose origins range
from Catalonia to Andalucía.
The food looks pretty though
the tastes are reassuringly
familiar (restaurantearriba.com;
Calle de Goya, 5; 1.30–4pm &
8.30pm–midnight; mains from
US$14).
Customers enjoy alfresco dining
at Restaurante Los Galayos
Cones of fried calamari and
octopus at Mercado de San Miguel
The starkly white dining room at
La Terraza del Casino restaurant
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MINI GUIDE
RESTAURANTE LOS
GALAYOS
MERCADO DE SAN
MIGUEL
LA TERRAZA DEL
CASINO
Perched atop the lavish Casino
de Madrid building, this temple
of haute cuisine is presided
over by celebrity chef Paco
Roncero and is the proud
bearer of two Michelin stars.
It’s all about culinary
experimentation and the menu
changes as each new idea
emerges from the kitchen
laboratory (casinodemadrid.es;
Calle de Alcalá, 15; 1–3.15pm &
9pm–11pm Tue–Sat; mains
from US$35).