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Fold 1Budget
Buenos Aires
Sexy, alive and confident, Buenos Aires is a fun
city in which to discover characterful barrios,
dine out on steak and then party ’til dawn –
even if you’re counting your pennies.The Parque Tres de
Febrero is a popular
spot for cyclingDining
Sights Nightlife
This cemetery is one of BA’s top
attractions; the tomb of Eva
Perón (Evita) is here, though it’s
not the grandest in this amazing
city of the dead, where ‘streets’
are lined with statues and
mausoleums. Presidents,
military heroes, politicians and
the rich and famous are buried
here. Free tours are offered in
English at 11am Tues and Thur
(Junín 1760; 8am–6pm).SAN TELMO
Elegant Belle Époque
architecture and crumbling
villas are throwbacks to San
Telmo’s 19th-century heyday,
and today the district is a
beguiling mix of faded grandeur
and bohemian spirit. Take a
wander along Defensa or
Balcarce streets towards leafy
Parque Lezama, soaking up
picturesque vistas of romantic
façades and drooping balconies
as you window-shop for
antiques. On Sundays, a
popular street fair takes over
the main drag (from 10am).LA BOCA’S CAMINITO
Rough-and-tumble La Boca, with
its brightly painted tenement
shacks, was the city’s principal
port until Puerto Madero was
created in the late 19th century.
The block-long cobbled Caminito
(‘little walkway’) is the barrio’s
most famous street and an
open-air museum. These days it’s
touristy but still a lovely place to
stroll, crowded with art stalls,
tango dancers and sculptures. It’s
even possible to explore the
inside of some conventillos
(tenements), such as the one at
Magallanes 861.FERIA DE MATADEROS
In the working-class barrio of
Mataderos, this folk market is a
celebration of Argentine country
traditions. Folk singers, dancers
and gauchos entertain while food
stalls dish out hearty dishes such
as locro (a corn and meat stew)
and empanadas. From downtown,
take bus 155 or 126 to the market
(feriademataderos.com.ar;
11am–8pm Sun Apr–mid-Dec,
6pm–midnight Sat Jan–mid-Mar).PARRILLA PEÑA
Argentina’s parrillas
(steakhouses) are legendary
and this simple, traditional
option in central BA serves
excellent-quality meats and
generous portions. The service
is fast and efficient and, best of
all, it’s great value. Don’t expect
many tourists – this is a local’s
sort of place. Also on offer are
delicious pastas, desserts and
wines (parrillapenia.url.ph;
Rodríguez Peña 682; noon–4pm
& 8pm–midnight; mains from
US$4.95).EL SANJUANINO
This long-running, cosy little
joint has the cheapest food in
Recoleta, attracting penny-
pinching locals and thrifty
tourists. Sit upstairs or in the
basement and order spicy
empanadas, tamales or locro.
The curved brick ceiling adds to
the intimate atmosphere, but
many ask for their food to go –
the lovely parks of Recoleta are
just a couple of blocks away
(elsanjuanino.com.ar; Posadas
1515; noon–4pm & 7pm–1am;
mains from US$4.95).LA GLORIETA
Tango’s popularity is booming in
the Argentine capital but the
elaborate tango shows are pricey
and touristy. Instead, porteños
(Buenos Aires residents) head to
dance events called milongas to
strut their stuff. Join locals at the
outdoor bandstand in Barrancas
de Belgrano, where the casual
milonga La Glorieta takes place
on weekends (Barrancas de
Belgrano; around 6pm–7pm
Fri–Sun).
MAGDALENA’S PARTY
If you want to find the action,
head to Palermo Soho, the city’s
trendiest neighbourhood. At its
heart, Plaza Serrano is a small,
popular square surrounded by
bars, including Magdalena’s
Party. DJs play Thursday to
Saturday nights and happy hour
runs from noon ’til midnight.
On weekends, you can nurse a
hangover over brunch (fb.com/
magdalenasparty; Thames 1795;
noon–3am Thu–Sat, to 6pm
Sun).FLUX
Everyone’s welcome at this gay
bar run by a friendly Englishman
and his Russian partner. The
large basement has an arty feel
and there’s a daily happy hour
from 7pm till 10pm. If you’re
feeling adventurous, try the
Buenos Aires iced tea, which is
made with Fernet, a popular
Argentine mixer that’s
something of an acquired taste
(fluxbarbuenosaires.blogspot.
co.uk; Marcelo T de Alvear 980;
from 7pm daily).Shops and houses in the street
known as Caminito, in La BocaMeat on the barbecue at the local
Feria de Mataderos marketCocktails in all colours, shapes
and sizes at Magdalena’s PartyFold 2MINI GUIDE
CEMENTERIO DE LA
RECOLETA