76 JOURNEY
The sun peaked over the horizon, and
in a matter of minutes, the darkness
which had cloaked me for hours
vanished, replaced with a warm, orange
glow. Though a good sized crowd was
gathered at the summit, you could
have heard a pin drop, such was the
silent reverence. You can climb Adam’s
Peak in daylight hours, and many
people do, but pilgrims typically prefer
to walk through the last hours of the
night to catch the sunrise at the top.
The theme of darkness overcome by
light is recurrent in many faiths, and
here it seems particularly appropriate
as Muslims and Christians, Buddhists
and Hindus all journey to the mountain
to pray. Visitors of no faith come too,
but the experience seems particularly
poignant for believers.
For the followers of the Abrahamic
faiths, it was here that Adam first set
foot on earth when he was cast out of
the Garden of Eden, having eaten the
forbidden fruit. An oversized footprint,
nearly two metres in length and cut
into the rock near the summit is, for
Buddhists, the mark left by the left foot
of the Buddha; for Hindus, that same
footprint belongs to Lord Shiva. Adam’s
Peak is, according to local Tamil legends,
also Mount Trikuta, described in the
Adam’s Peak, Sri Lanka
Ramayana Hindu epic as the capital of
the demon king, Ravana.
I climbed Adam’s Peak in April,
at the peak of the pilgrimage period,
and like my Buddhist companions,
I made the journey barefoot as a sign of
humility. Starting around 2am, we opted
for the Hatton trail because although it
is steep, it is significantly shorter than
the other routes. Our way was lit by tiny
lights along the path, as well as by the
near-full moon and stars. We climbed
step after rough step, hewn into the rock
or bolstered with stone and concrete,
and made our way through the forested
mountainside. There are rumoured to
be wild animals in the forest, including
leopards and elephants, but thankfully
they keep their distance from the path
and those who climb along it.
There are nature-made pitstops to
rest along the way, flanked by tea and
snack stalls. There is also a chance
to stop at the modern Peace Pagoda,
erected on the mountain in 1978.
Though certain sites are of particular
significance to one religious community
or another, all are welcome to stop, rest,
reflect, and pray. To this end, Adam’s
Peak stands tall as an ecumenical
beacon in a world where religious
tolerance is sadly often found wanting.
SRI LANKA
ADAM’S PEAK
right The journey
from darkness into
light is a common
theme in religion, and
is embodied literally in
climbing Adam’s Peak
through the night to
witness the sunrise
WHEN
The best time to climb is between
December and May, and you will need
to allow at least three hours to reach
the top.
WHERE
Adam’s Peak is in the southern
highlands of Sri Lanka, close to the
Nuwara Eliya hill station.
HOW
Best of Lanka (www.bestoflanka.com)
offers a number of trekking and cultural
tours, including a guided ascent of
Adam’s Peak. The closest international
airport is Colombo.
EXPERIENCE
ADAM’S PEAK