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Food & drink

in Helsinki

The Finnish capital’s watery geography, cutting-

edge design and carefully preserved heritage

provide the perfect backdrop for its flourishing,

local-focused food scene.

Budget

Mid-range Top end

SALVE

Down by the water in the west of

the capital, this 1897-founded

establishment has kindly service,

a warm atmosphere and a nautical

air. Its raison d’être is great Finnish

comfort food, such as meatballs,

fried Baltic herring and steaks in

substantial quantities (raflaamo.fi;

Hietalahdenranta 5C; 11am–11pm

Mon–Thu, to midnight Fri,

noon–midnight Sat

–Sun; mains from £15).

ISLAND DINING

There’s no better way to

appreciate Helsinki’s seaside

location than by heading out to

one of its many orbiting island

restaurants. Most are served by

small boats ferrying to and from

mainland quays every 10 to 20

minutes during eating hours.

Quality varies annually, so ask

locally where’s good. Stylish,

spired Saaristo on Luoto Island is

famous for society weddings and

crayfish parties (asravintolat.fi;

5pm–11pm Mon–Fri mid-May–

mid-Sep; mains from £18).

KUU

Traditional Finnish fare is given a

sharp, contemporary twist at Kuu,

which creates its dishes from local

ingredients: roasted reindeer fillet

with forest mushrooms, poached

pike-perch with Lappish fingerling

potatoes, and braised rhubarb

with vanilla ice cream. There are

also some interesting (if pricey)

wines. Or try casual bistro sibling

KuuKuu, half a mile south

(ravintolakuu.fi; Töölönkatu 27;

11.30am–midnight Mon–Fri,

2pm–midnight Sat, 2pm–10pm

Sun; mains from £16).

TEURASTAMO

This former abattoir area between

Sörnäinen and Kalasatama metro

stations is a popular grazing spot

for Helsinki locals these days, with

a range of locally sourcing eateries

opening up in the casual post-

industrial precinct. Snack on dim

sum, smokehouse fare, fresh pasta

and more, or bring your own meat

to grill and graze the kitchen

garden for veg (teurastamo.com;

Työpajankatu 2; 11am–10pm).

KONSTAN MÖLJÄ

The maritime interior of this old

sailors’ restaurant hosts an

impressive husband-and-wife

team who turn out a great-value

Finnish buffet for dinner. Though

it sees plenty of tourists, it’s still

a great spot to sample solid

traditional cooking, including

salmon, soup and reindeer. There’s

also a limited à la carte menu

(konstanmolja.fi; Hietalahdenkatu

14; 5pm–10pm Tue–Fri, 4pm–

10pm Sat; buffet £16).

KARL FAZER CAFÉ

Fronted by a striking Art-Deco

façade, this classic 1981 café is

the flagship for Fazer’s chocolate

empire – one of Finland’s most

beloved local brands. The glass

cupola reflects sound, so locals say

it’s a bad place to gossip. But it’s

ideal for confectionery, fresh bread,

sundaes, cakes and salmon or

shrimp sandwiches (fazer.fi;

Kluuvikatu 3; 7.30am–10pm Mon–

Fri, 9am–10pm Sat, 10am–6pm

Sun; dishes from £3.50).

OLO

Widely considered Helsinki’s

best restaurant, Michelin-starred

Olo occupies a handsome 19th-

century harbourside mansion. It’s

at the forefront of modern Suomi

(Finnish) cuisine. Memorable

tasting menus incorporate the

foraging ethos and molecular

gastronomy (olo-ravintola.fi;

Pohjoisesplanadi 5; 11.30am–3pm

& 6pm–midnight Tue–Fri, 6pm–

midnight Sat; menus from £45).

SAVOY

Designed by Modernist Finnish

architects Alvar and Aino Aalto,

Savoy’s dining room has got real

presence and some of the city’s

best views. The food is a modern-

Nordic tour de force; the Nordic

foraging spirit strews flowers and

berries across plates that bear the

finest Finnish game, fish and meat

(ravintolasavoy.fi; Eteläesplanadi

14; 11.30am–3pm & 6pm–

midnight Mon–Fri, 6pm–midnight

Sat; mains from £32).

Reached by boat, Luoto Island

hosts celebrated eatery Saaristo

Local ingredients fuel the world

dishes at popular Teurastamo

Innovative Suomi-inspired tapas

gracing the table at Juuri

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MINI GUIDE

JUURI

Creative takes on classic Finnish

ingredients draw the crowds to this

stylish restaurant. The best way to

eat is to sample the ‘sapas’: tapas

with a Suomi twist (£7

per plate). You might graze on

marinated fish, smoked beef or

parsnip with cheese. Lunches are

good too, but not as interesting

(juuri.fi; Korkeavuorenkatu 27;

11.30am–2.30pm & 5pm–11pm

Mon–Fri, noon–11pm Sat,

4pm–11pm Sun; mains from £21).

Laid-back hangout

Teurastamo, in a

converted abattoir