The Wienerwald features
diverse flora and fauna;
since the mid-19th
century, it has served as
a beloved retreat for
weary city slickers like
Empress Elisabeth I.,
who would seclude
herself from the court at
the Hermesvilla (below).Paul Hofmann rejoiced that the woods were thriving:
“No other major European capital can boast such a
large and safe recreational area,” he wrote, where you
can fill your lungs and lift your spirits just a short ride
from home.
ONE FOREST, MANY LANDSCAPES
The easternmost foothills of the Alps, the Vienna
Woods roll down into the Danube valley toward the
central European plains of Hungary. Bounded by the
Danube to the north and the Triesting river to the south,
the Wienerwald stretches over 45 km from Klosterneu-
burg to Wiener Neustadt. At 1,400 km^2 (over 540
square miles), it covers an area five times as large as the
combined boroughs of New York City.
Once a refuge for outlaws, from the late 18th centu-
ry, the Wienerwald began to attract city dwellers –
today there are 51 Lower Austrian communities and 7
Viennese municipal districts within the woods, add-
ing up to over 800,000 inhabitants. During the Bieder-
meier era (1815–1848), many Viennese became fond
of Landpartien (day trips) involving picnics and mu-
sic, clambering up steep forest trails in horse-drawn
carriages. Today, the area has become the top holiday
destination in Lower Austria, scoring high in culinary
pleasures, good wine, and village charm.
Part of the attraction lies in the area’s great diversi-
ty: The outliers of the limestone Alps are mostly cov-
ered with coniferous forests, while the foothills clos-
er to Vienna host native beech, oak, ash, birch,
linden, hornbeam and horse chestnut, with shade in
summer and a palatte of color in the fall. Rounded
slopes contrast with deep, craggy ravines, such as in
Hinterbrühl and the Klause, where the Mödling
Brook flows. Most pleasingly, the Wienerwald’s east-
ern flank is covered with ancient rolling vineyards,
some planted by the Romans, and others that may
date back to Celtic times before 400 A.D.MOUNTAIN INNS AND ROMAN BATHS
Only a tram or bus ride from the center, the wine vil-
lages closest to the city have long become suburban
pilgrimages, civilization with a lingering rural touch.
Some still carry names evoking the forest (Wald), like
Neustift am Walde or Neuwaldegg.
Among the most accessible charms are the forest
inns, those small taverns nestled away in glens serv-
ing hikers. Those that are accessible by car tend to be
more crowded (and scorned by the purists!); for small
culinary gems such as Krauste Linde, you’ll need to
walk at least a mile or two. Or you can bring your own
grill and barbecue in the designated Grillplatz under