Metropole - October 2017

ON DISPLAYON THE VINE

As smartphones and technology keep us
curled up inside, we like to think we have
mastered our environment, but ask any
vintner and he’ll tell you a different story:
The smallest meteorological factor can
make or break a vintage, and, technology
notwithstanding, good wine is still at the
mercy of the elements. This year is no ex-
ception, but so far 2017 was more lenient
than the year before, when destructive
weather led to losses of nearly €3 million.
Many vintners are relieved, as the previ-
ous five years were somewhat lackluster.
Still, it has been touch and go for much of
2017: This year already started precari-
ously with late frost and hailstorms. But
unlike 2016, when a particularly brutal
cold snap shattered vines, the damage has
been manageable. Fair weather reigned
during the critical budding phase, allow-
ing shoots to establish themselves before
harsher temperatures kicked in.
Summer, in turn, brought intense heat
and dry weather, but winemakers re-
sponded with constant irrigation and by
thinning grapes from the vines – neces-
sary to avoid overburdening when the
plant produces too much fruit. Statistik

Austria reports show that these measures

are paying off: This year’s projected har-

vest will increase by 12 percent compared

with the last five years, countering the re-

cent trend toward low yields, but still con-

sidered merely “average” by the Austrian

Chamber of Agriculture. Viticultural Asso-

ciation president Johannes Schmucken-

schlager counseled caution, pointing out

that the predictions are still uncertain and

may change as harvests are tallied.

BURGENLAND COMES OUT ON TOP

Since the summer was so dry, grapes are

smaller than usual, but very healthy, as

mildew and blight need moisture to thrive.

This makes for very pure wines, with no

extra measures needed to clean and cull

diseased grapes.

Also, higher sugar content from gener-

ous amounts of sunshine leads to higher

alcohol volume and lower acidity, result-

ing in intense, full-bodied wines – good for

reds but not so much for whites.

Indeed, weather conditions were opti-

mal for certain varieties and regions. “Hot

and dry summers are the perfect mix for

high-quality red wines,” explained

Andreas Liegenfeld, President of the Viti-

cultural Association of Burgenland, who

expects a good year for reds to make up for

the cold and wet summer of 2014 and the

destructive spring frosts of 2016.

Liegenfeld was already harvesting the

grapes of his own vineyard at the begin-

ning of September – a week earlier than

usual, due to early ripening after the in-

tense heat wave in August. His crop was

very healthy and had excellent sugar con-

tent, good signs that this vintage will be

one to remember.

The fact that the summers are getting

hotter doesn’t seem to worry Liegenfeld.

“As long as southern Italy, Spain and

France are still able to produce wine, we

are far enough north that this is not a

concern for us yet.”

Still, 2017 will be a year where Austrian

vintners will have to show their skill after

the harvest and carefully ferment, blend

and store their wines to counteract heavi-

ness in white wines known for their lighter

flavor profiles like Riesling and Grüner

Veltliner. As summer temperatures keep

rising, it may be time to keep an eye on

Austria’s red wines instead.

PHOTO: JOSEF SIFFERT

harvest

Through Ice and Sun

Unpredictable weather has kept Austrian vintners

on their toes, making the 2017 vintage a challenging one

by Catherine Hooker

This year was far more

forgiving than 2016, when

severe inclement weather

affected the harvest.