PHOTO: ANJA STEVIC.ON THE MENU
restaurantA Passage to
Austria
Gastwirtschaft im Durchhaus brings
Viennese cuisine into the 21st century
by Andreas RainerLet’s face it: Neubau, Vienna’s ultratrendy
7th district, may have gotten a little too
fashionable. Some of Vienna’s most exotic
eateries have made their home here, and
dinner options now include artisanal burg-
ers, Japanese udon, Vietnamese pho, burri-
tos and fajitas. So you may be forgiven if,
spoiled amid all this choice, all you want is a
Wiener Schnitzel and a pint of local beer.
Fortunately, those yearning for a bit of
Viennese soul food can now turn to
Gastwirtschaft im Durchhaus (Inn at the
Durchhaus), which reopened with a new
concept this May to bring down-to-earth
Viennese delicacies back – albeit in a hip,
updated style. Its name derives from its
unique location: It’s hidden away within a
Frei williger Durchgang (voluntary passage)
between Lerchenfelder Strasse and Neus-
tiftgasse. This charming remnant of days
past is a standing invitation for pedestrians,
granting permission to take a shortcut
directly through the Durchhaus (through
house) through several private residential
courtyards. It is one of those humble, mag-
ical details that make Vienna stand out,
giving the Gastwirtschaft a quintessential-
ly classic vibe before you even enter.
Despite being fairly new, Gastwirtschaft
im Durchhaus has already made a name for
itself – during our visit, it was filled to ca-
pacity despite its spacious premises, in-
cluding a roomy salon in the back and a cozy
séparée for semicasual first dates. Bright
white walls harmonize with the neo-rustic
wooden furniture, highlighted by a tur-
quoise bar, generous lighting and various
deer heads on the walls (which we were as-
sured died of natural causes). The careful
balance of old and new makes for an excel-
lent mélange of traditional flair that still
caters to contemporary sensibilities.NEVER TOO OLD
“New Viennese cuisine” is what it is all
about here – a fancy term indicating that
their vegetarian options go beyond a side
order of dumplings or potatoes. We started
with an excellent fresh Frittatensuppe
(bouillon with shredded pancakes) and
then moved on to a veal schnitzel prepared
the traditional way – fried golden brown in
lard, with potato salad on the side.Exceedingly tender and juicy, the portion
was huge and very reasonable at €16.50.
We also tried the chanterelle goulash,
one of their seasonal dishes from the menu- unfortunately, the delicate mushrooms
were overwhelmed by the paprika, losing
too much of its character. We finished with
their Süsses Gspusi, a sugary meltdown of
mousse au chocolate, caramel ice-cream
and fresh fruits – order it to share if you are
even slightly concerned about your sugar
intake. As for drinks, four beers await on
tap, including a craft brew as an inescap-
able nod to the times; the wine list is com-
pact but still offers a nice variation of local
and domestic varieties.
But a true Beisl isn’t just about food and
drink: A generous dollop of Wiener
Charme is a vital ingredient. In that re-
gard, Durchhaus delivers as well: Our host
for the evening rocked a pointed goatee
and looked like he personally waited on
Archduke Franz Ferdinand himself; a
staunch gentleman of the old school, he
could not have been more hospitable.
Putting a modern touch on tradition is a
delicate operation. With its fantastic
venue, decent price range and exceptional
takes on the classics, Durchhaus appears
to have already conquered a spot in the
golden Viennese heart.
Gastwirtschaft
im Durchhaus
7., Neustiftgasse 16
(01) 526 94 48
Tue-Sat 17:00-0:00
durchhaus.at