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DECEMBER 2017 businesstraveller.com
A
s the year’s end approaches, we
look back at the changes and
trends in the watch world,
before giving credit to those
that really stood out.
From an industry
perspective, Swiss watch exports rose
steadily over the summer, and the Chinese
marketwasresurgent,upmorethan20per
cent year-on-year.
Cautionhasbeenthenameofthegame
for many watch brands in 2017; the result of
cutbacks over the past two years was that this
year’s crop of watches focused on aesthetics
rather than technical developments, as well
as lower prices. The cause may be uninspiring
but the watches have been refreshingly
simple – maybe the market had become
bloated from complicated watchmaking.
This relative austerity has helped create
the dominant trend for trawling the back
catalogues for designs to revive. This has only
intensified, bringing with it standout watches
such as Blancpain’s Tribute to Fifty Fathoms
Mil-Spec, as well as less well-known reissues.
TELL
TIME
WILL
The bulk of new watches may have
little that’s new inside them, but instead
of the kind of “innovation” we were
used to when business was booming
(ever-more intricate and arcane whirligigs
foroligarchs)weareseeingahandful
of brands modernising the basics of a
mechanical movement. Panerai’s Lab-ID is
one such project, boasting ground-breaking
reliability, and there have been similar
efforts from Zenith with its Defy Lab. A
little commercial pressure is no bad thing.
ABOVE:Blancpain
Tribute to Fifty
Fathoms Mil-Spec
LEFT:Panerai
Lab-ID Luminor
1950 Carbotech
Business Travellerlooks
back on the finest
watches of 2017 – and
makes a few predictions
for the year to come
WORDS CHRIS HALL
Relative austerity has inspired a trend for
trawling back catalogues for designs to revive