The curse and miracle
of Kupiškis
EMIL STAULUND LARSEN AND NOAH GROVES
Lithuania has the highest suicide rate in all
of Europe. The country underwent a difficult
transition after the fall of the Soviet Union and still
struggles with problems from the past. However,
things are changing and an unlikely group from
a small town is now leading the charge.It is a three hour bus ride from the nation’s capital, Vilnius, to the north-eastern
part of Lithuania. The trip through the country is picturesque. In an old bus on a
bumpy road, we pass by idyllic woods and shining lakes. When we arrive to our
destination, a 1.5 metre tall sign greets us –“Welcome to Kupiškis.”
At first glance, Kupiškis looks like any other city in a rural area. The bus station
is old and grey and is the only connection to the rest of the country. A large church
and its two tall towers can be seen from most of the city. The main street takes you
through the city to the municipal building, a cultural centre, a tourist information
point and a few local shops.
Paulius Pranckūnas was born in Kupiškis and has lived here most of his life. He
has worked as a tourist manager. He is also a councilman and owns a café outside
of the city where he sells coffee and turquoise coloured donuts next to an artificial
lagoon. He knows the city and its villagers. For him, Kupiškis is not a close-knit
community: “There are different types of people who do not want to talk together,
do not want to celebrate together, and do not want to do anything together with
people whom they don’t know. This is a problem in all Lithuania, not just Kupiškis”.