As guests settle into their cabins the train
travels west, skirting Glasgow, and afternoon
tea is served as it makes its way along the
edge of Gare Loch. In the far distance is
the magnificent 884m Ben Arthur. The
observation car is fitted with comfortable
bucket chairs and sofas offering an ideal
vantage point to drink in a view of Loch
Lomond, Britain’s largest lake, and then the
wild, boggy beauty Rannoch Moor.
Passengers are encouraged to dress
formally for some meals and a number of
the men wear kilts, many for the first time.
Dressing for dinner adds to the decadent
atmosphere and once everyone is well fed
and watered, a nightcap in the Observation
Car with local musicians becomes a lively
affair. When it’s time to retire, guests find their
wood-paneled cabin has been transformed
into a bedroom, a thoughtful hot water bottle
tucked under the covers. The train docks each
night so good sleep is assured.
As enjoyable as it is to stay cocooned in
the pampered luxury of the train, there are
adventures to be had. One of the highlights
of the trip is savouring the dramatic coastal
stretch to Arisaig and then getting out to
stretch your legs on Morar Sands, a white
sandy beach with views across to the Isleof Skye. Back on board after a sumptuous
lunch, a local highlander shares stories
about Scottish heroes as the train travels on
to Fort William for tea in the drawing room at
Inverlochy Castle Hotel, or for the energetic,
a two-hour walk through Nevis Gorge.
If the walk has tired you, the Royal
Scotsman offers something no other luxury
train does – an on-board spa carriage with
a therapist offering massages as well as
facials and manicures. It is hard to top a
deep-tissue massage while listening to the
gentle rumble of the train as it travels south
to the Bridge of Orchy.
The last full day on the train is full of
activities, beginning with a 35-minute ferry
ride to the Isle of Bute to see the spectacularCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Guests going on The Western Journey with Belmond Royal Scotsman are welcomed
by a kilted bagpipe player; Belmond’s Bamford Haybarn Spa offers massages, facials and manicures on
board; drink in the view of Loch Lomond from the observation carNovember/December 2017 AsiaSpa 103