AKJP AW18 (showcased at SA Fashion Week in October
2017) is the brand’s first collaboration with designer
Elaine du Plessis (of Christopher Strong). Keith and Jody
are eager for her to continue working with them in the
capacity of head designer, not only because it relieves
their workload (‘Two people can’t do everything,’ says
Jody), but also because of her meticulous tailoring skills.
Elaine joined the team at the opportune moment – the
new collection is all about strong basics, beautifully cut
with attention to detail and construction. It’s extremely
ready-to-wear. There’s a look for every occasion – from
swim shorts to suiting. Dresses are a little more fashion
forward: almost all sheer, some printed, and expertly
constructed by Elaine. Dresses aside, AKJP has always
been unisex, and this collection is no different, offering
shirts and wide-cut trousers that look great on anyone.
Team AKJP is well versed in what it means to produce
clothing locally. Pieces are made all over Cape Town,
depending on the type of garment each manufacturer is
most skilled at producing. ‘If you give trousers to the shirt
lady, it’s a mess,’ says Jody.
Keith is eager to continue producing custom fabrics.
‘We are going to start developing our own jersey,’ he says.
In order to make use of local textile mills, a design house
needs to be producing garments of a certain quantity in
order to meet a prerequisite fabric minimum. This is the
next step for AKJP. Being part of the Woolworths Style By
SA collection was a learning experience, prompting Keith
to tap into larger manufacturers and learn to manage them.
Keith and Jody, like the clothes they create, are a
strong presence. Making clothes is who they are, and
so, as Keith puts it, ‘we’re making things that are true
to ourselves.’ That, according to Jody, does not need to
contribute to the modern African design narrative in
a literal way: ‘I’ve been very wary of using our being
African as a marketing tool in any way. Because I think
that just doesn’t feel right and it doesn’t feel authentic.
Of course we’re proud to be South African and [to] be
designers working here, but it’s not something we think
about when we design clothes like, “this is an African
woman”. No, we try to think of it in global terms.’
What the local fashion industry needs to thrive, says
Jody, is a bloodline. ‘That’s the beauty of, like–,’ he starts
saying. ‘An Italian brand,’ Keith finishes for him. ‘You can’t
compete with that kind of heritage,’ says Jody. ‘Maybe in
40 or 50 years,’ adds Keith. ‘Or in 150 years,’ Jody says.
The fact that they’re not saddened by this prospect is
proof that they’re content with AKJP and its current state
of affairs in the local fashion world – and why wouldn’t
they be? Not only has AKJP firmly positioned itself as an
established local design brand, backed by a strong team
of creative and business minds, but it’s also still on the
rise – and certainly one to keep watching.mc PHOTOGRAPHS
NEIL ROBERTS, NICO KRIJNOfashion insider
90 MARIECLAIRE.CO.ZA JAN/FEB 2018