55ZIGOR ALDAMA is the Far East Asia
correspondent for Vocento, Spain’s largest
media group. His work often revolves around
social and cultural issues.MIGUEL CANDELA is a photographer
currently based in Hong Kong, specialising
in social features across Asia. He won
Best New Talent at the 2012 Prix de la
Photographie (Px3) Paris competition.WHEN
Easter is usually celebrated at the end of
March or beginning of April, but dates change
every year. San Fernando City’s hotels are
basic, and tend to be fully booked weeks
in advance, so early reservations are advised
WHERE
San Pedro Cutud is a barangay (the smallest
administrative division in the Philippines)
in the city of San Fernando, located in
Pampanga Province, north of Manila
HOW
Catch a flight to Manila, and then a domestic
flight to San Fernando (2 hours 50 minutes).
Take a bus bound for Bataan or Zambales,
and alight in San Fernando. Jeepneys run
regularly into San Pedro Cutud; alternatively,
a tricycle can be hired. For less hassle, travel
agencies in Manila can also arrange tours to
attend the Holy WeekEXPERIENCE
HOLY WEEKSan Fernando
ManilaAvoid travel agencies and arrange the trip
to San Pedro Cutud yourself. Not only will
you save a good deal of money, but you
will also be able to interact more with the
locals – and you will have more freedom.
Arrive early for the processions, because
it’s extremely crowded.INSIDER’S TIP
PHILIPPINESEmergency services are always
busy at this time of the year. “We try
to keep people away from infections.
Fortunately, most cuts are superficial
and not as bad as they look,” confides
a nurse on the scene, who requests to
remain anonymous.
Some tourists look on in disgust,
and many turn their eyes away from the
scene when the devotees are nailed
to the cross. It’s a macabre show,
and not for the faint-hearted. Despite
the throngs of people, the opinion of
this audience is divided. Some – like
Maldonado – admire the strength and
devotion of the penitents; others –
many of them atheists – consider San
Pedro Cutud’s commemoration of the
Holy Week as an anachronistic ritual
that is out of place in the 21st century.
One thing is certain: It does not
leave the spectators indifferent. agabove Participants often
pray during their ordeal,
which they say helps them
overcome the pain. After a few
minutes, they are lowered again
and given medical treatmenttop A young penitent – whose
head is crowned with a thorny
plant – is flagellated. He will
walk barefoot to his village
after reaching the Metropolitan
Cathedral of San Fernando City
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