61JARED DOWNING is an American journalist
based in Yangon, Myanmar. He likes to
hitchhike and collect cans of sardines from
around the world. http://www.jdowningwriting.comJEROEN DE BAKKER graduated with honours
from the Photo Academy in Amsterdam in
2012, after which he travelled to Myanmar
for a year and a half to work on his book
Myanmar: Beyond the Surface, which he self-
published after a successful crowdfunding
campaign. http://www.jdebakker.comWHEN
The festival takes place annually, beginning
in late October or early November and ending
on the November full moon. Large animal-
shaped balloons are launched throughout the
day and candles and fireworks balloons begin
after dark
WHERE
Taunggyi is in Shan State in central Myanmar
HOW
Visitors must apply for a Myanmar tourist
visa in advance at http://www.evisa.moip.gov.mm,
or apply in person at a Myanmar consulate.
Flights to Yangon and Mandalay are available
via Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.
VIP buses to Taunggyi run regularly from
Yangon and Mandalay. In Taunggyi, inquire
at one of the many local travel agencies about
a taxi or shuttle to the festival groundsEXPERIENCE
TAUNGGYI FIRE
BALLOON FESTIVALThe nighttime fire balloons steal the
show, but for a safer alternative, head
to the launching ground during daylight
hours to see a constant parade of paper
cows, dogs, roosters, dinosaurs and other
animals take to the skies.INSIDER’S TIP
Things seemed to reach a breaking
point in 2014, when unusually windy
weather led to the highest balloon
crash rate yet. Twelve people were
hospitalised and four people died,
including two fire masters, who
sustained severe burns while hoisting
an exploding fireworks cage off a
tent full of spectators.
There have been no balloon-related
deaths since then, possibly due to
new safety measures, including stricter
enforcement of firework weight limits
and a wooden fence to keep the
throngs of people from swarming
the balloon teams.
Than Zaw’s wife, Daw Wai Wai
Thaung, regrets the fence. “I love to
stand as close as I can and then run
away from the fireworks. That’s my
favourite part,” she shares.
And in one moment, with nothing
but a waist-high picket fence between
me and a hail of fire, I could see what
she meant. Why else would 10,000
people huddle under giant balloons
firing mortars in every direction but
up? It appears that standing in the way
of danger has become an inextricable
part of this tradition, making it one
that should be given a wide berth by
the faint-hearted. agYangonTaungg yiMYANMARsoutheast asia