72Every year at the time of the Kartik
Purnima full moon in November, the
sleepy Indian town of Pushkar comes
roaring to life as the Pushkar Camel
Fair – or Pushkar Camel Mela as it is
known locally – rolls into town, as
it has done for centuries. Billed as
the largest camel fair in the world, it
attracts an estimated 200,000 visitors
each year – an eclectic mix of Hindu
pilgrims, livestock traders and wide-
eyed tourists, creating a carnival-like
atmosphere where religion, tourism
and commerce come together, yielding
an enchanting and chaotic scene on
the border of Rajasthan’s Thar Desert.
Camel keepers and up to 20,000
camels descend on the sand dunes
surrounding the city prior to the fair to
set up camp and mingle with traders,
devising strategies to buy and sell
their camels. Following the official
opening of the fair, an itinerary of
cultural activities and competitions are
thrown into the mix. The atmosphere
is hard to describe, but it’s something
of a chaotic combination of a frenetic
auction and fun fair – on steroids.
An emblem of India’s Rajasthan
state, the camel symbolises love in
local folklore, and owning one once
signalled great status and wealth.The camel was used in warfare by the
maharajahs, and played an important
role in their desert communication,
transportation and trade.
Although the fair may sometimes
feel like nothing more than a gaudy
carnival, a deeper look reveals the
fascinating story and plight of the
Rabari, a tribal group of Rajasthani
camel keepers who were, historically,
the guardians of the camel.
“My ancestors were responsible for
transportation for the ruling princes.
They relied on us and it was a great
source of pride,” explains 53-year-old
Hukuma Ram, who walked nine days“My ancestors were responsible for
transportation for the ruling princes.
They relied on us and it was a great
source of pride”
Hukuma Ram
below A mark used to identify
a camel’s origin is displayed
on its fur
right Camels wearing colourful
neck pieces feed in the desert