Asian Geographic - April 2018

Hidden among

the paddy fields

of a remote

Thai province

lies the home

of a wizard.

Text and Photos Francis Wilmer

In a bungalow on the outskirts of a small

farming village in Uttaradit in Northern

Thailand lives Ketmunee, one of the country’s

few remaining ruesi.

The translation of ruesi falls somewhere

between “forest sage”, “monk” and “wizard”.

A spiritual descendant of the rishi of India –

who are known for writing the Vedas, the

first scriptures that formed the foundation

of Hinduism, and living lives dedicated to

searching for enlightenment – Thai ruesi have

practices tied to Hinduism and animism,

though they are considered lay members of

the Buddhist community.

Portrayed in ancient statues and paintings,

ruesi were once sought out to heal the sick,

protect people against evil, and foretell the

future. But after Theravada Buddhism swept

the country at the turn of the last millennium,

their influence waned, and they gradually

faded from mainstream spiritualism.

Today, rumours of black magic, curses

and even murder haunt ruesi practices. Most

Thais have never seen one in the flesh, only on

right Ruesi Ketmunee

lived in caves for five

years using just his

simple travelling kit

television, where they are typically portrayed

in period dramas as menacing forest sorcerers

with sinister powers. But Ketmunee chuckles

when asked about these characterisations.

“I don’t watch television, but I am nothing

like how they portray us,” he says. “I just like

to be alone – to focus on my meditation, to

bless the world around me.”

Traditionally, ruesi live an austere life in

imitation of the Lord Buddha, so as to gain

a deeper understanding of the universe. The

priorities of each individual differ: Some act as

healers while others do fortune-telling, perform

blessings, or sell love potions. Ketmunee

chose to spend the past five years meditating

in various caves, and only just returned to

the modern world, where he splits his time

between his house and the nearby forest.

Despite the tattoos, dreadlocks and tiger

skins, Ketmunee cuts a serene figure in the

wild. Strolling through the forest, he gestures

with his staff to various plants, fruits, roots and

mushrooms, pointing out which are poisonous

and which can be eaten or boiled into tea.

Under

100

POPULATION

LANGUAGE

RELIGIONS

RUESI:

mysterious forest

recluses

Hinduism,

Buddhism

and animism

ภาษาไทย

Thai

feature | ruesi