New Zealand Listener - May 26, 2018

36 LISTENER MAY 26 2018

THIS LIFE

T

he glossy green of granny smith apples

stands out in fruit shops at this time

of year, contrasting with the red and

pink of the other half-dozen popular

varieties.

When the granny smith was grown,

as a chance seedling, by Maria Ann

Smith in 1868, near Ryde, north-west of Sydney,

people could not believe a green apple could be so

delicious.

Tart and firm, yet cooking to a fluffy puree, it

remains popular all over the world.

Apple growers continue to breed for flavour,

crunchiness and keeping qualities. Developments

in storage and transport have created variety-spe-

cific controlled conditions for the 500,000 tonnes

of apples a year we export.

Many people mourn the passing of flavoursome

old-fashioned apple varieties that have been lost

in a quest for innovation by growers constantly

seeking an edge in export and domestic markets.

Backyard trees and old orchards still have their

value and are sought out by passionate cooks.

This week’s recipes are inspired by those ancient

and irresistible granny smiths. Apples go well with

pork, especially with a touch of cream to finish.

And this cream-cheese pastry is deliciously flaky

and tender.

RUSTIC APPLE PIE WITH CREAMCHEESE PASTRY

PASTRY:

180g flour

pinch of salt

pinch of baking powder

85g cream cheese, cut into chunks

120g cold butter, cut into pieces

Granny smith

is a tart treat

2 tbsp cream

FILLING:

3 large granny smith apples

3 tbsp sugar

juice of 2 lemons

2 tbsp butter

½ cup apricot jam

To make the pastry, put the flour,

salt and baking powder into a food

processor. Add the cream cheese and

process until the cream cheese is

absorbed. Add the butter and process

again until the pastry starts to form

small beads. Add the cream and pulse

once or twice, but not to the point

that it forms a ball. Turn out onto

a clean bench and draw the pastry

together. Wrap it in cling film and

allow it to rest for 30 minutes before

rolling it out to make a 35cm circle.

Place this on a floured baking sheet.

Set the oven to 200°C.

Core the apples and slice thinly.

Working very quickly as apples tend

to turn brown in the air, lay the slices

in a circle on the pastry, starting from

about 8cm in from the edge. Fill the

middle with the remaining slices.

Fold the overhanging extra pastry

back over the apples at the edge,

crimping it neatly. Sprinkle the sugar

and lemon juice over evenly.

Bake in the preheated oven for

about 40 minutes, or until the apples

are tender.

Let the pie cool. Heat the apricot

jam, pass it through a sieve and,

using a pastry brush, glaze the apples

and the pastry edges with the jam.

Serve with whipped cream, yogurt

or a combination of both.

Serves 6.

PORK LOIN WITH APPLES AND MUSHROOMS

800g pork fillet

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp flour

2 tbsp grapeseed oil

2 tbsp butter

2 shallots, chopped

2 granny smith apples, cored and sliced

Since its accidental birth

150 years ago, this versatile

apple has become a

favourite all over the world.

by Lauraine Jacobs

FOOD