AUSTRIAN ALPS
GREAT ESCAPE
GREAT ESCAPEIn addition to the ice caves, explore the
two-mile-long Liechtensteinklamm – a gorge
20 minutes’ drive to the south, by the village of
Sankt Johann im Pongau. Right opposite the
entrance to the gorge is the small Hotel
Lerch-Plankenau. It has simple, motel-style
rooms, but the restaurant is good value and
there’s often live music during dinner (from
US$118 half-board; lerch-plankenau.at).
Eisriesenwelt is open from May to October
(US$25 including cable-car access; eisriesenwelt.at).Essentials
Return from the icy depths to explore Austria’s
greatest concentration of lakes, around 1–1½ hours’
drive to the northeast.Eisriesenwelt – above the town of Werfen- is one of many ice-caves in this part of
the Austrian Alps. They’re caused by
a geological peculiarity; their chimney-
like shape draws in cold air in winter but
prevents the ingress of warm air in summer,
meaning the water inside freezes but never
fully thaws. Gradually, the ice builds up inch
by inch, foot by foot, and over millennia
accumulates into huge formations.
Though many of its structures are ancient,
the ice itself is dynamic, changing with
every passing year. Pillars grow and
dwindle. Tunnels appear and vanish.
Stalagmites and stalactites intertwine
before melting into nothingness. ‘The cave is
closed for winter as it’s too cold inside,’
Siggi says, as he passes a huge serac of ice,
like a wave frozen in motion. ‘When we
reopen in spring, it’s amazing how much
has changed. Often we have to move the path
because the ice has altered shape or moved.
It’s almost like it’s alive.’
For Siggi, the Salzburgerland is an area
where it’s impossible not to be awed by
nature’s power. ‘The cave guides here have
a joke,’ he says, catching a few rays of
sunshine between tours. ‘We have the best
office in the world, but the central heating
needs some work.’
He grins and picks up his carbide lamp,
stuffing extra rolls of magnesium into his
pockets, then heads back into the icy
underworld.AUSTRIAN ALPS