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Day three: Twizel to Lake Ohau,
38km
A mixture of country roads and
off-road trails passed a canal-based
salmon farm and the Ohau weir, lead-
ing us eventually to our night’s billet
at Ohau Lodge, with its stunning
views along the lake, fringed by the
Ben Ohau Range.
Day four: Lake Ohau to Omarama,
41km
Today, the weather gods deserted us.
It started out cold, with rain that was
to persist most of the day. Unfortu-
nately, it coincided with what proved
to be the most testing section of the
whole ride, as we traversed the lower
slopes of the Ruataniwha Conserva-
tion Park, then slogged our way up a
narrow rough track to the Tarnbrae
high point of 900m. About 7km of
rolling descent was made tricky, too,
by surface water on the trail, but
finding that another cycle group had
called up a mobile coffee van near the
start of Quailburn Rd gave our sodden
team a much-needed boost. A little
further down the road, Scott materi-
alised in our support van with a tray
of hot chocolate to speed us on to
Omarama and the Heritage Omarama
Hotel, where we dried our soaking
gear. We could have done without
the downpour, but were happy for
North Otago and the smiling locals
in evidence everywhere. That even-
ing, Hope and I spent a blissful hour
soaking in a giant wood-fired outdoor
hot tub.Day five: Omarama to Kurow, 67km
Back to blue-sky days and an undulating mix of off-
road trails and state highway. Riding past the hydro
lakes of Benmore, Aviemore and Waitaki and their
associated dams led us to the quaint country town
of Kurow. It is notable not only for being the
birthplace of the first social security system for New
Zealand workers (introduced by then Presbyterian-
minister Arnold Nordmeyer for local power scheme
workers), but also for having raised keen young
rugby player Richie McCaw. The limestone soils of
the region are also producing award-winning pinot
noir. We had another excellent night’s lodging at
Western House, a private homestead that has acted
as a wayfarers’ rest for more than a century.Day six: Kurow to Burnside, 58km
Today was again a mixture of off-road gravel
track and state highway riding to Duntroon, with
its Wetlands and Vanished World centre housing
displays of ancient geological features and marine
fossils dating back 25 million years. Climbing out
of Duntroon, you reach the jaw-dropping vista
of the Elephant Rocks, a huge cluster of other-
worldly limestone formations, and then on to the
Takiroa rock art shelter, site of the earliest known
recording of Maori rock art. Our day ended at
the Burnside Homestead, a restored 19th-century
country mansion where we sat down to a lavish
evening banquet, served by the owners dressed in
period costume. Definitely a highlight of the whole
experience.Day seven: Burnside to Oamaru, 20km
After the previous two days of, for us, moderately
taxing riding (beware of smiling locals who tell you
it’s “all easy undulations”, or “it’s all downhill from
here”), the triumphant run into Victorian Oamaru,
bathed in early morning sunlight, was a delight.
We wound through the beautifully maintained
Botanical Gardens, then through town to the A2O
finishing post on the harbour front. After wander-
ing around the restored precinct and visiting the
Steampunk HQ Museum, we overnighted at the
historic Brydone Hotel. The next day, Scott gave
us a quick tour of Oamaru before driving us back
to Christ church Airport, leaving us to reflect on
a week of cycling, both difficult and delightful,
through one of the most beautiful regions of New
Zealand. We’d thoroughly recommend it – but if,
like us, you’re a weekend warrior, it would pay to
do some hill work first. lhttp://www.trailadventures.co.nzEver-changing and challenging: Aoraki/Mt Cook from
Lake Pukaki; Hope and Roger Spragg at the trail’s end in
Oamaru; ancient Maori art in the Takiroa rock art shelter;
riding the Alps 2 Ocean trail.