WWW.ASTRONOMY.COM^61This wide-angle lens will let
you produce high-quality
shots with just a camera and
tripod. by Jonathan Talbot
was extremely easy because the
stars snapped into focus. The
lens does exhibit some chro-
matic aberration. Stars have
bright magenta rings on one
side of focus and slightly green
ones on the other side. This
actually made finding exact
focus relatively easy because
it was the point where the
magenta disappeared.
One of the nice things
about using a wide, short-
focal-length lens is that you
can gather excellent images
just by mounting your camera
on a tripod. No tracking
required! However, you do
need to keep your exposures
relatively short to avoid elon-
gated stars if your goal is a
sharp image (showing the
stars as your eyes see them).
Using the 500 rule (divide
500 by the focal length in
millimeters), gives a maximum
non-tracked time of 25 seconds
using the 5D, and 15 seconds
using the 60Da. Remember,
though, that this rule is a rough
guess, and a test exposure is
good practice to make sure the
star profiles in your exposures
are what you expect.
Even after following these
exposure recommendations, the
stars showed some elongationwhen viewed full size, but it
went away and the image
looked sharp when downsized.
These days, with low-noise
CMOS chips and electronics
with extremely high ISO set-
tings, you may be able to get
away with exposures using 400
divided by the focal length.
One issue I dealt with late at
night was dew forming on the
lens. The front of this lens is a
big chunk of glass, and when it
cooled to near the dew point, Iconstantly had to use a 12-volt
hair dryer to carefully heat it
up a bit. If you’re going to shoot
in a humid climate, you may
want to invest in a small dew
heater strap to wrap around the
lens cover. (I’ve got several, but
forgot to bring them.) Either
way, a quick shot of heat kept
the lens clear for 10 minutes,
long enough to take some short
untracked exposures.
A bit later the same night,
I decided to take my favorite
shot: a mosaic of the Milky
Way arching across the sky.
The 20mm Sigma did not
disappoint. With hair dryer
in hand, I used the 5D
camera and captured multiple
30-second untracked exposures
at f/3.2 and ISO 1600. With my
geared head and an 85° field of
view, I took six images from
south to north. Then I pointed
the camera high and took six
more in the opposite direction.
Finally, I took six low acrossthe ground. Six images gave me
about a 20 percent overlap. I
stitched together the 18 images
in Adobe Photoshop using the
“Photomerge” function.Final thoughts
The 20mm Sigma f/1.4 DG
HSM Art is a well-built and
well-corrected lens. The one
I tested provided the best-
looking stars at f/4, but f/3.2
won’t disappoint if you need
the extra speed. This heavy
lens is built to be solid. If you’re
currently shooting nightscapes
through 14mm or 35mm lens-
es, the 20mm focal length is
one to add to your arsenal. And
if you’re just starting wide-field
imaging, I recommend you
take a close look at Sigma’s
20mm lens.20mm lens
Sigma 20mm f/1.4 DG HSM
Art Lens
Construction: 15 elements in
11 g r o u p s
Minimum aperture: f/16
Length: 5.1 inches (130 mm)
Diameter: 3.6 inches (91 mm)
Weight: 33.5 ounces (950 grams)
Price: $899PRODUCT INFORMATION
Contact:
Sigma Corp. of America
15 Fleetwood Court
Ronkonkoma, NY 11779
800.896.6858
http://www.sigmaphoto.com
Jonathan Talbot is an
astroimager and equipment
tester who lives in Ocean Springs,
Mississippi.The photographer titled this image “Comet Storm.” He used the Sigma 20mm f/1.4 lens at f/2 coupled to a Nikon
D810 camera. He shot fifty-seven 30-second exposures at ISO 1600, then used stacking software and created the
cometlike stars by reducing the opacity for each exposure by 2 percent. DARREN WHITE