Skyways – August 2019

Preservation society

The SA Fisheries Museum in Velddrif is small, but

packed with information and displays. Right on the

banks of the Berg River, the little white building with

modest signage is crammed with models of fishing

and crayfishing boats, displays of birdlife and seaweed

farming, maritime instruments, photographs and even a

full-sized marlin, mounted on the wall. It’s a fine insight

into the lives lived here, according to tides and natural

rhythms.

Salt is also big in Velddrif. There are the vast salt pans

of Cerebos as you enter the town. Some pans are pale

pink and match the long-legged flamingoes that adorn

them; others have banks encrusted with white salt

crystals. Khoisan salt, however, is completely different

and uniquely from Velddrif. This salt is hand-harvested

and renowned for its intense taste. It’s also supercharged

with minerals and trace elements. Owner Britt Geach,

whose father laid out the pans about 20 years ago,

says what’s special in Velddrif is that the water trickles

through sand and shells into a natural underground

aquifer, so the salt derived from it has extra calcium and

is very pure. Tests have shown Khoisan salt to be healing

too, so you don’t just cook with it, but bath and scrub

with it too. You can buy it directly from the factory in

town, in an array of natural flavours.

Quaint connections

We head back to Bokkomlaan for a late and lazy lunch

along the river. Die Vishuis is old-world and atmospheric

and the garlic mussels leave a lingering taste for more.

Then we’re back at The Pelican Post for a cup of good

coffee. Ahlers saunters past and we beckon him to join us.

We talk about the carpets of daisies starting to bloom and

how the landscape will soon be a riot of floral colour all

around Velddrif. This time of year, the barren earth comes

to life and the area transforms into a living painting.

“Staunch folk live here and they have hearts of gold,”

muses Ahlers. “It’s calm and peaceful too, but you either

love it or hate it here. The heat is extreme and so is the

cold. Many people prefer an easier life, so they don’t last

here – and the true Velddriffers just don’t last anywhere

else.” It’s certainly the case for Ahlers, who came here as

a child, left and returned to stay forever. It’s also tough to

make a living here, but when Velddrif chooses you there

is no escape, it seems.

Text and photography | Keri Harvey

There are over 200

species of water birds

along the river.

Airlink connects

Cape Town with 10

destinations around

South Africa, Botswana

and Zimbabwe. Go to

page 75 for schedules.

http://www.flyairlink.com

How to get there

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travel leisure | lifestyle

CAPE TOWN