The Washington Post - USA (2022-05-25)

E6 EZ EE THE WASHINGTON POST.WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 , 2022

pleasantly in the herbal white vermouth I used for the base of the Smoked Strawberry Aperitif (I used Martini and Rosso but Dolin Blanc would work nicely here as well). If you want to experiment with fruits and fire, here are a few tips: Think about complements and contrasts. The caramelization that can happen when fruit cooks over fire echoes flavors you find in barreled spirits like whiskeys, aged tequila and rum. Many mezcals have a smoky, roasted note that’s emphasized by mixing it with grilled fruit. Other tones that will create a spark to stand out in a mixture of caramel and smoke: The notes from fresh herbs like mint, the tartness of citrus, a little peppery heat. (Both the Golden Brown Sour and the Spine and Spice incorporate chili pepper; you get char and smoke flavors from the grilling and spicy heat from the pepper, balanced out with sweet and tart fruit.) Look for the ripest, juiciest fruits. Overripe is better than underripe, especially if you’re using pineapple or stone fruits. Don’t even bother with underripe fruits — they aren’t going to be as juicy to start with, and will get less-so over the heat. You want to make sure you’ve got plenty of juice left to squeeze or muddle into your drink, even after the fire’s had its way with the fruit. Protect your produce. Fruits may stick to the grill, so rest them gently on the grill surface and turn them occasionally to make sure they’re not getting seared in place. (Don’t be tempted to use a foil wrap here — if you do that, the fruits will cook, certainly, but your ingredients won’t get any char and will take in less smoke.) Skewer the little guys. You can use well-soaked bamboo skewers for the fruits too small to set directly on the grill. The skewers will likely char anyway but without the soak, they may actually catch fire. A grill basket with narrow slats also can be a useful tool when dealing with fruits or pieces small enough to fall through the grill. Save some for later. Yes, grilling is thirsty work, and maybe you’ll want to share everything you make with your guests then and there. But if you take some of those grilled strawberries or charred pineapple chunks and put them in a jar with a complementary spirit to infuse for a couple of days, you’ll be able to whip out fired-fruit booze for cocktailing later on, even if there’s no fire in sight.

— a cold bottle of lager while
you’re sweating over a fire is a
pleasure, whether tipped down
your gullet or pressed against
your forehead. But I want to
make the case for taking
advantage of the presence of fire
to make some cocktails that
you’re not likely to whip up on
the average weeknight.
The skills required for cookout
cocktails are not primarily
culinary, especially if you’re not
the person in charge of the fire.
What you’re likely to need most is
negotiation skills, and a sharp
eye to spot the moment a sliver of
space over the fire opens up —
that little dead zone behind the
burgers where a skewer of
strawberries can land, the holes
between ears of corn just big
enough to drop a half lemon
where it can soften and blacken
without interfering with the rest
of the meal. If you ever wasted
any hours playing Te tris, sliding
the right shapes into the voids
they match, you’re going to be
great at this.
Beefing for turf between the
brats and the zukes is worth the
trouble, because even a few
minutes over fire or gathering
smoke inside a closed grill can do
great things for summer fruits.
And those fire-smooched fruits
can then move along to do nice
things in cocktails.
The juice that comes out of a
charred lemon or grapefruit slice
is smoky and richer. A ripe
tomato that’s been softened up
on the grill gets sweeter and
more intensely umami, cuing it
up to play the lead in a sweet or
savory drink. Stone fruits like
peaches and plums absorb a little
smoke and their sugars start to
caramelize, bringing out new
flavors that will play differently
with spirits than the raw fruits
do.
I wasn’t able to lay hands on
ripe peaches to play with for this
story (it’s a little early for them
yet), but from past experiments I
can tell you this: A ripe half-
peach or nectarine, brushed with
melted butter — for the flavor
and so it won’t stick — laid face
down on a hot grill till it’s well-
striped, is a beautiful thing,
whether sliced up in a summer
salad or muddled with mint and
a little sugar into bourbon. Keep
it in mind for when good peaches
arrive later in the summer.
I was able to get some ripe
strawberries, and the flavors they
took on when macerated in
balsamic vinegar and then grilled
were terrific. They still held a
bright, tart note but it got richer
and jammier, and the slight
bitterness of char stood out

SPIRITS FROM E1

Charred fruit’s juice

is worth the squeeze

Spine and Spice Cocktail 1 serving Agave and pineapple are both spiny, intimidating plants, but humans have learned to coax delicious stuff out of them. Here, sherry and an ancho chile liqueur add richness and spice to grilled pineapple, cut back with a little brightening lime. (Ancho Reyes also comes in a green poblano version; you’re looking for the original red ancho version for this.) Active time: 10 mins; Total time: 20 mins Ancho Reyes can be found at Total Wine in Maryland, as well as in the District at Batch 13 and Calvert Woodley.

Ingredients l2 ounces ripe pineapple, cut into chunks lIce (cubes for shaking, one large cube for the drink) l 11 / 2 ounces reposado tequila l^1 / 2 ounce PX sherry l^1 / 2 ounce Ancho Reyes chile liqueur l^1 / 2 ounce fresh lime juice l2 dashes pimento or Angostura bitters l1 lime wheel, for garnish (optional)

Steps lGrill or broil the pineapple over

a hot grill fire or under a broiler, 5 to 10 minutes, enough to color the fruit (it should have some blackening). Let cool. lPlace a large ice cube in a rocks glass. In a c ocktail shaker, vigorously muddle the pineapple. Add the smaller ice cubes, then the tequila, sherry, chile l iqueur, lime juice and bitters. Shake hard, 20 seconds, to chill and dilute, then strain into the glass, garnish with the lime wheel and serve. Recipes tested by M. Carrie Allan; email Smoked Strawberry Aperitif questions to [email protected] 4 servings Here’s a light, summery sip to make when you’ve got the grill going. Grilling brings out the flavor and sweetness of the strawberries and the balsamic. White vermouth is a sweeter, herbal variation of the fortified wine; we used Martini & Rossi Bianco. You’ll need wooden skewers for the strawberries. Active time: 10 mins; Total time: 1 hour 20 mins

Ingredients l8 ripe strawberries l^1 / 2 cup balsamic vinegar lCrushed ice and ice cubes l12 ounces white vermouth l8 ounces tonic water

Steps lAbout 1 hour ahead of grilling, set the wooden skewers in w ater to soak. At the same time, wash the strawberries. Slice off the crowns and refrigerate them for use when serving. Set the berries in a bowl, then top them with balsamic vinegar and stir to coat. Marinate for 1 hour. lSkewer the berries and set the skewers toward the edges, or

cooler part, of the grill. Grill until softened but not falling apart, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer the skewers to a platter and let cool, about 5 minutes. lFor each drink, fill a highball glass with the crushed ice and set aside. Add 2 grilled strawberries and 3 ounces of white vermouth to a cocktail shaker, and vigorously muddle the berries in the wine. Add ice cubes to the shaker, shake hard to combine, and double-strain into the glass. Top with the tonic water, stir gently and garnish with a strawberry crown. Nutrition | Per serving (1 drink): 133 calories, 0 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 15 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 12 g sugar

Golden Brown Sour Cocktail 1 serving It’s best to make this drink, a spicy hybrid of a Brown Derby and a Gold Rush, when you’ve got a little extra grill space during summer cookouts, enough to slide some fruit on. The fire caramelizes the sugars in the fruit and adds a nice smoky flavor. Note that the honey syrup is zippy — if you want less spice, reduce the ratio of hot honey to regular honey in the syrup. Active time: 15 mins; Total time: 1 hour The spicy honey syrup can be refrigerated for up to 1 month. Mike’s Hot Honey can be found at well-stocked supermarkets and online. Recipes from Spirits columnist M. Carrie Allan.

Ingredients For the spicy honey syrup l^1 / 2 cup hot water l^1 / 4 cup Mike’s Hot Honey l^1 / 4 cup clover honey For the drink l^1 / 2 grapefruit, plus an additional

slice for optional garnish l1 lemon, sliced in half, plus an additional slice for optional garnish lIce (cubes for shaking, one large cube for the drink) l^3 / 4 ounce spicy honey syrup l 11 / 2 ounces bourbon

Steps lMake the spicy honey syrup: In a heatproof container, stir t ogether the hot water with both types of honey until thor- oughly combined and syrupy. Let cool completely, then use right away, or cover and refrigerate until needed. lMake the drink: Put a slice of lemon or grapefruit, a half grapefruit, and two halves of a lemon cut side down on grill grates and grill for 10 minutes, ideally with the grill closed to capture the smoke, until the fruit is softened and charred. (Alternatively, position a rack 4 to 5 inches from your broiler and preheat to 400 degrees. Place the fruit on a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes or until softened.

Turn on the broiler and roast the citrus for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the cut side begins to caramelize.) Let the fruits cool, about 10 minutes, then juice them into separate containers and refrigerate until ready to make the drink. lAdd a large ice cube to a rocks glass. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes, then add 1 ounce of the grilled grapefruit juice, ½ ounce of the grilled lemon juice, the honey syrup and bourbon and shake to dilute and chill, about 20 seconds. Strain into the glass and serve, garnished with a smoked citrus wheel, if using. Nutrition | Per serving: 167 calories, 0 g protein, 17 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 16 g sugar

PHOTOS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN FOR THE WASHINGTON POST FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Poached Salmon and Napa Slaw With Citrus-Miso Dressing

4 servings Active time: 50 mins; Total time: 50 mins, plus at least 4 hours for chilling salmon MAKE AHEAD: The poached salmon needs to be made and chilled at least 4 hours in advance. The slaw can be dressed and refrigerated up to 2 hours before serving. The poached salmon can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. The dressing can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. From cookbook author and registered nutritionist Ellie Krieger.

Ingredients For the salmon l1 lemon, halved lFour (6-ounce) center-cut salmon filets For the dressing l3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving l2 tablespoons fresh orange juice l2 tablespoons white miso l2 large scallions, white and light green parts coarsely chopped, and dark green parts thinly sliced and reserved for garnish l1 tablespoon honey l^1 / 4 teaspoon fine salt lPinch ground white pepper l^1 / 4 c up mayonnaise For the slaw l4 cups lightly packed thinly sliced napa cabbage (about^1 / 2 small head) l1 medium carrot, grated on the large holes of a box grater (about^2 / 3 c up) l^1 / 4 c up thinly sliced red onion (half-moons)

Steps lMake the salmon: In a deep skillet with a lid, add enough water to fill about three-quarters of the way and bring it to a low boil o ver medium-high heat, adjusting the heat as necessary. Fill a kettle with a couple of cups of water and bring to a boil to add later, if needed. Squeeze the lemon into the water in the skillet, then place the fish skin-side down in the pan. Add more boiling water from the kettle, if needed, to sub- merge the fish. R eturn t o a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to low,

cover, and cook, adjusting the heat to maintain a low simmer until the fish reaches an internal temperature of 125 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of fillets. Transfer the salmon to a large plate and let it rest for 5 minutes. Cover and refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 4 hours. Before serving, flip the fish over and remove the skin and any brown flesh underneath it. lMake the dressing: In a blender, combine the lime juice, orange juice, miso, the white and light green parts of the scallions, the honey, salt and pepper into a blender and blend until smooth, stopping to scrape d own the s ides of the blender with a spatula as needed. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and whisk in the mayonnaise until combined. You should get about^1 / 2 cup. (If you have a large blender that requires more volume to work properly, double the dressing recipe.) lMake the slaw: In a large bowl, toss together the cabbage, carrot, red onion and about half of the citrus miso dressing until combined. lTo serve, divide the slaw among four serving plates, top each with a piece of salmon, drizzle the fish with the remaining dressing and garnish with the reserved scallion greens. Serve with a wedge or two of lime. Nutrition | Per serving (about^3 / 4 cup slaw, 1 piece salmon and 1 tablespoon dressing on top): 416 calories, 36 g protein, 17 g carbohydrates, 21 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 109 mg cholesterol, 581 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 11 g sugar Recipe tested by Olga Massov; email questions to [email protected]

The dressing in
this recipe may
get second billing
in the title, but as
far as I am
concerned it is
the real star here.
Made simply by
whirring orange
and lime juices,
scallion, miso
paste, salt, pepper and a little
honey in a blender, then
whisking in a little mayo, it is so
alluringly good — citrusy and
gently sweet, creamy and savory
— it lights up just about
anything you drizzle it on.
Here it is tossed with
shredded napa cabbage, carrot
and red onion to make a
mouthwatering slaw, which is
served topped with a buttery
fillet of chilled poached salmon,
and then you drizzle more of the
magical dressing on top.
It’s an elegant dish which
holds up well in the refrigerator
for a make-ahead dinner, or in a
cooler to, say, bring to work for
lunch, or to a weekend picnic.
You might want to make a
double, or even triple, batch of
the dressing, because once you
try it, you’re going to want more
and it keeps in the refrigerator
for several days.
The dressing is truly a game
changer drizzled on just about
any type of seafood, grilled
chicken, grilled or steamed
vegetables or tossed with
whatever salad greens look best
at the market — a star player
that adds luster to everything it
touches.

Krieger is a registered dietitian,
nutritionist and cookbook author
who hosts public television’s “Ellie’s
Real Good Food.” Learn more at
elliekrieger.com.

Ellie
Krieger

NOURISH

Miso lures you to this well-dressed dish

TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY GINA NISTICO FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The Washington Post - USA (2022-05-25)

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