http://www.woodreview.com.au 31PROJECTI used a 9.5mm round-over bit, stepped down in a small
trimmer router (photo 9). Of course you can use a
different profile if you wish. Remember you only need
to profile the sides and front of the top and base. Some
back routing on the side edges will prevent any tear-out
occurring.
Pre-finishing saves time
Pre-finishing the components before glue-up means an
easier clean-up process further down the line as it can
prove tricky getting into right angled joinery once glued.
Sand the faces and edges, working through the grits. You’ll
spend more time with 120 grit removing machine and
pencil marks and then less following up with 180 and 240.
Gluing up
Having done a test fit you should be ready to glue
up the cabinet frame using Titebond III (photo 10).
After checking for square and making any necessary
adjustments I used a damp cloth to clean up any
squeeze out.
Making the back
A board of solid American oak was resawn to 6mm thickness
for the back. The pieces were bookmatched and glued
together with Titebond III (photo 11). You could also use
4mm/6mm plywood or veneered MDF. Masking tape was
used to secure the join (photo 12).
The inside faces of the solid oak were planed first before
cleaning up the outer faces to help prevent cupping though
this cannot always be a sure thing.
- For sliding dovetails the sides are machined to fit
housings in the top and bottom. - Test fitting joinery can sort out problems before gluing up.
- It can also help to figure out before applying gluing the
best clamp placement to achieve square.
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