October• 2018 | 105
TRAVEL
Italy’s biodynamic
movement is creating
notable wines using self-
sustaining techniques and
an astrological twist
BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT
FROM NEW YORK TIMES
I
t is a hot, late summer evening in Tus-
can wine country – and, unexpectedly,
I am getting a lesson in astrolog y.
Inside a grid of cool, lush green
vines, amid hills and valleys rippling
towards the horizon, a woman in a wide
straw hat named Helena Variara is pointing
towards the sky.
“You have days of fire, air and days of
earth – the 12 constellations are our help-
ers,” she says matter-of-factly. “Our work is
to enter the rhythm of the planets.”
Technically speaking, Variara’s work is
also to make wine. She and her partner,
Dante Lomazzi, own a tiny winery 60 kilo-
metres south of Florence called Colom-
baia. “We work the soil on earth days,” she
says. “We work the leaves on water days.
he annual harvest of the Sangiovese grapes at
Colombaia winery outside Siena in Tuscany