54 DECEMBER | JANUARY 2018 best health besthealthmag.ca
says. “Then the grape must [ juice and skins] fer-
ments using yeast that was already present in the
vineyard – a yeast that is in symbiosis with the
grapes. It’s terroir driven.”
On the other side of the country, Matthew Sher-
lock, co-owner of Sedimentary Wines in Vancou-
ver and Lock & Worth Winery in the Okanagan, is
equally committed to wines made with minimal
intervention and is an importer of natural wines.
“Natural wines are about integrity, honesty and
transparency,” he says. Like Cuff, he feels that nat-
ural fermentation is important, as is little to no fil-
tration. He isn’t keen on omitting sulphites (“The
last thing we need is spoiled or faulted wine,” he
says), but he has deep concerns about the type of
additives he has seen in mass-produced wines.
“Mega Purple is dehydrated grape must,” he says.
“It’s like cough syrup.” Years ago, when Sherlock
worked at a huge commercial winery in New Zea-
land, he saw compounds like Mega Purple, as well
as oak powder (to simulate oak-barrel aging) and
copper sulphate, routinely added to wines. “These
were things you had to use gloves and a mask to
handle,” he says.
ARE NATURAL WINES BETTER
FOR YOU?
The answer to this question depends on who you ask
a nd on you r food ph i losophy, i n gener a l. I f you bel ieve
that natural foods are better for you, you’ll probably
feel the same way about natural wines. Someone like
Sherlock can’t understand why anyone who cares
about her body and the planet wouldn’t choose natu-
ra l wines. “I used to work at a wine shop in Kitsila no,
BC, and people would come in with $200 worth of
groceries from Whole Foods next door – stuff right
from farms,” he says. “Then I’d watch them pick up a
mass-produced, highly industrialized wine. If you’re
going to ascribe to health in your food, why not
ascribe to it in your wine?”
Perhaps. But in the end, everyone feels that the
main point of wine is pleasure. “The health benefits
are almost secondary,” says Cuff. “It’s about taste.”
MacLean agrees, pointing out that not every sin-
gle bottle of natural wine is perfect. “Like all prod-
ucts, there are varying quality levels and styles on
the natural wine market,” she says. “It should never
be work to enjoy wine.”
*Bonny Reichert is in the process of completing her
training as a certified sommelier with the Court of
Master Sommeliers
SUPER
NATURALS
How to choose natural winesNatural wines can have a hipster reputation, says Matthew Sher-
lock, co-owner of Sedimentary Wines in Vancouver and Lock &
Worth Winery in the Okanagan. But Sherlock passionately believes
these wines are for everyone. “The natural wine movement is
about accessibility and sustainability,” he says. “There are people
who say it’s a fad, but saving the planet isn’t a fad.”
What’s more, they are delicious, says Mark Cuff, owner of The
Living Vine in Oakville, ON. “Natural wines are more food-friendly
in my opinion,” he says. “They tend to be lower in alcohol and very
rarely have any oak influence. These are real wines for real food.”
As for cost, the prices of natural wines vary as widely as those
of conventional wines. They might be quite inexpensive or pricey,
depending on the grape, winery and country of origin.
So what’s the best way to find natural wines to complement your
holiday gathering? Start with the label. Organic wines are labelled
that way, whether in English or French or by logo. Biodynamic
wines might say “biodynamic” right on the label or will have the
words “Demeter” or “Biodyvin” on them (check the back).
Don’t be put off by wines that say “contains sulphites” because
all wines do, whether naturally or because sulphites have been
added to keep them fresh. And please don’t be afraid to ask ques-
tions at the wine store. A good product consultant will be able to
direct you to choices to suit your taste and budget, as will a waiter
at a restaurant or wine bar with a good wine list.
Offerings will vary widely from region to region and month to
month, but here are a few producers to watch out for.SOUTHBROOK (NIAGARA, CANADA) Canada’s first biodynamic
winery offers something for everyone, including Chardonnay, rosé,
Cabernet Franc (red) and even “orange” wine, which isn’t a wine
made from oranges but a style of white wine that involves more
contact with the grape skins.MARIE COURTIN (CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE) Run by the spirited
Dominique Moreau, this domaine produces delicate, meticulously
made Champagne.DOMINIO DE PUNCTUM (LA MANCHA, SPAIN) This winery
produces many interesting and well-priced biodynamic wines,
including whites like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, reds like
Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon and lovely rosés. Try the
wines under the Viento Aliseo label.AZIENDA AGRICOLA COS & OCCHIPINTI AGRICOLA (SICILY,
ITALY) Uncle (COS) and niece (Occhipinti) craft wines at these
highly respected natural and organic wineries that specialize in lo-
cal grapes like Nero d’Avola and Frappato. bh ISTOCK