IMAGES:
SUPERSTO
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THE
SHARPHAM
TRUST
Why go
Totnes may lay claim to being the second-oldest
borough in England, but its feet stand fi rmly in
the New Age. Pioneers in community-minded
living, Totnes is a town that prizes mindfulness
before modernity — and the happy byproduct
is a high street packed with plant-based
restaurants, quirky bookshops and art galleries
showcasing local talent. Totnes has plenty to
off er beyond its cultural clout, too. Situated
midway up the River Dart, the town is a short
hop from the wilds of Dartmoor National Park
and the English Riviera at Paignton. Whether
you’re keen on a canoeing adventure or cycling
through forested valleys, there’s a natural
playground within easy reach. visittotnes.co.uk
Don’t miss
The River Dart fl ows from Dartmoor National
Park to the sea at Dartmouth, passing little else
but small villages and sprawling wilderness.
Looming over the river valley are ancient
oak woods; discover this timeless landscape
and its lore on a trip with Canoe Adventures,
and keep a lookout for seals, which can be
spotted along the river up to the weir at Totnes.
canoeadventures.co.uk NORA WALLAYA
What to do
Totnes’s bohemian reputation owes much to
the charitable Dartington and Sharpham trusts.
The former has been a campus of learning in
the arts, ecology and social justice for nearly
a century, and its listed halls and gardens are
well worth seeking out. Sharpham House,
meanwhile, hosts events, retreats and courses on
everything from forest bathing to birdwatching.
But if it’s retail therapy you’re after, browse the
shops along Fore Street, from local Ticklemore
cheese at Ben’s Farm Shop to tomes on folklore
at Arcturus Books. Don’t leave without a taste
of the organic ice cream at gelateria Delphini’s.
dartington.org sharphamtrust.org
Where to stay
Bed down in a lovingly renovated, 600-year-old
building at The Old Forge, once a blacksmith
and carpenter’s workshop. Rooms are classically
English in style, with creamy colour schemes,
plush cushions and fl oral touches. A cheery
welcome is guaranteed from owner-manager
Julie George, whose enthusiasm for the area
permeates even the hotel’s chunky stone walls.
From £140, B&B. oldforgetotnes.com
STAY AT HOME
TOTNES
Decamp to the South Devon town for counterculture,
organic pubs and outdoor adventures on the edge of Dartmoor
WE LIKE
Everything from the virtues
of nettles to the pitfalls of
lords-and-ladies is explained in
colourful detail on a woodland
foraging tour at The Sharpham
Trust. Led by a qualified
botanist, the full-day activity
covers an exploration of the
estate’s wild grounds, as you
learn to correctly identify
native plants and their nutrition
profile. Afterwards, cook your
frondy finds in the outdoor
kitchen. From £ 55 per person.
sharphamtrust.org
Where to eat
It’s organic-everything at restaurant-with-
rooms The Bull Inn. Opened in 2019 by
publican Geetie Singh-Watson, the inn has
earned its green stripes with a menu that puts
locally sourced, seasonal vegetables fi rst.
Think crispy purple-sprouting broccoli doused
in whipped tahini and za’atar, or pollock
served with romesco, chard and wild garlic.
Rooms from £145, B&B. bullinntotnes.co.uk
Boats moored on the
River Dart, Totnes
Below: Preserved rose petals
SMART TRAVELLER
JUL/AUG 2022 37
