MAN VS WINE
WHAT’S IN A NAME — THE
INGREDIENTS OF CHAMPAGNE
The champenoise have guarded the
name Champagne, and rightly so. This
means that anyone outside the region
making Sparkling wine does not have the
right to call it Champagne. The Spanish
have Cava, the Italians have Prosecco
and we have Sparkling wine, which sadly
does not have the same romantic
sounding label — but to be honest, it’s
made in exactly the same manner.
The process of Méthode Champenoise
sees three grape varietals — Pinot Noir,
Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier —
blended using base wines (still table
wines from multiple vintages) or in the
case of vintage Champagne, the wines
from one exceptional vintage can be
used. Once the still wine is blended it
goes into bottle to undergo its secondary
fermentation where the bubbles are
formed. The bottles in the caves of most
Champagne houses are stored
underground for a minimum of 12–15
months on a riddling rack where each
day they are turned. This turns the dead
yeast cells (often referred to as lees
cells), which helps to enhance the
complexity of the resulting wine. The
dead yeast congregates in the neck of the
bottle as the riddling racks hold the
bottles at an angle. Finally, after
anything from fifteen months to ten
years, the bottle is ready to be disgorged.
During this process, the neck of the
bottle is frozen and the yeast cells
removed before the wine undergoes what
the French refer to as ‘dosage’ — the
addition of sugar to the wine. This
depends on the individual Champagne
house, according to the style they are
famed for. Some prefer no sugar, whereas
others will add more to make a more
commercial style. The bottle is then
corked and sealed in the famed muselet
(wire cage) that is so distinctively
Champagne and the cause for so much
trepidation the world over as people
struggle to open a bottle.
A CELEBRATION AT EVERY TURN...
If you think about it, there’s no more
convivial drink than Champagne. It’s
drunk at weddings, anniversaries,
birthdays, is synonymous with victory,
and elicits more joy than any other
beverage. Of course we all know it’s too
easy to drink on it’s own, but paired
with canapés of smoked salmon or any
delicate cured fish it’s a real winner.
It’s one of those drinks that you could
have an entire meal with due to the
cleansing acidity and differing levels of
complexity. It can also be a useful foil
for cheese with one of the great pairings
being Parmigiano Reggiano just served
on its own — a match that will have you
bubbling with excitement.
Charles Heidsieck Brut
Reserve NV $90
Champagne Charlie was
a legendary figure who
popularised the drink
stateside. Today the NV
blend has never been
better with 40 per cent
of it made with 10-year-
old base wines from over
sixty crus (plots).
Larmandier Bernier
Longitude Blanc de
Blanc NV $100
Traditionally wine
growers, Larmandier is
a beacon of quality and
this 100% Chardonnay
Champagne is a lesson
in detailed precision and
fruit quality. Although dry,
it’s rich and broad, and
long on the palate.
House of Arras Grand
Vintage 2007 $59
What more can you say
about this epic Sparkling
from Tasmania? The deity
of all things effervescent
— Ed Carr has made a
profound statement
regarding Aussie bubbles
with this release. Expect
complexity and clarity,
laser-sharp acidity and
layers of biscuit-like
intensity. Seek it out.
Krug Grande
Cuvee NV $285
Put this one on your
bucket list. There’s no
comparison to other
NV’s as it’s in a league
of its own, fusing grace
and elegance with
balance and poise. But
don’t think its beauty
is skin deep; below lies
a Champagne of such
detail and complexity
that it will astound.