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Clarksdale
MISSISSIPPIThis sleepy town of just 17,000 residents in the heart of the
Mississippi Delta has built an international reputation on its musical
heritage. From the 1920s to 50s Clarksdale was a booming centre for
African-American culture and music, particularly the blues. Greats
like John Lee Hooker, Robert Johnson and Muddy waters all have
roots here and the city has several notable sites that make up the
Mississippi Blues Trail. Most come to Clarksdale, aka Bluestown
USA, for the music, but linger for the food and some of that famous
southern hospitality.EAT THIS
Abe’s Bar-B-Q, famous for its tangy
barbecue served with coleslaw and
beans, has been a clarksdale institution
since 1924. hot tamales – usually
slow-cooked pork or beef covered in
cornmeal then wrapped and simmered
in a corn husk until the meal is set – are
a Mexican dish Mississippi has made
its own. they can be enjoyed plain,
but most locals prefer them ‘hot’ –
drenched in a spicy hot sauce. and
while you’re here, catfish is a must –
enjoy it blackened, breaded or baked.SEE THAT
Your one-stop shop for a crash course in
the history of the blues in the Mississippi
Delta is the Delta Blues Museum.
established in 1979, it celebrates local
legends and features photographs and
memorabilia, including instruments,
recordings, costumes and posters.DON’T MISS
One of the greatest musical myths
of all time is that bluesman Robert
Johnson sold his soul to the devil at
The Crossroads in order to become
a famous musician. legend has it that
this grand bargain took place at the
intersection of highways 49 and 61,
right on the edge of clarksdale. now
the spot is marked by three intersecting
guitars and fans travel from around the
country, and the world, to see it. as for
Johnson’s bargain, he did not achieve
much success in his short lifetime.
he was dead by the age of 27 and the
circumstances of his death remain
a mystery, although many believe
he was poisoned by a romantic rival.AFTER DARK
clarksdale is home to some of the best
juke joints in the country, and you can
guarantee there’ll be live music there
every night of the year. Ground Zero
Blues Club, co-owned by Morgan
Freeman, serves up serious southern
food and has live music Wednesday
to Saturday. Red’s Lounge looks a bit
disreputable from the outside, but inside
you’ll find cold beer, conversational
locals and clarksdale’s finest blues.THAT ONE TIME OF YEAR
the Juke Joint Festival has been coming
to clarksdale every april for the past 15
years and brands itself as “half blues
festival, half small-town fair and all about
the Delta”. the festival features more than
a hundred music acts and about as many
art, craft and food vendors. if you’re after
an authentic local experience, this is as
real as it gets.