The Sunday Times - UK (2022-06-05)

(Antfer) #1

Caitlin Holt is 22. The founder of a creative
agency in Miami, she also runs a food and
travel TikTok account (@luxurygoddess) in
her spare time. She’s not an influencer — “It’s
just for fun.” Nonetheless her 11-second post
about London’s Sketch restaurant has had
1.6 million views. She’s coming back to the
capital again this summer. Before she travels


Forget queueing for sharing plates, the new eating-out trend is


‘revenge dining’ – splashing out in expensive restaurants. And their


biggest customers? The under-thirties. Kate Spicer reports


Photograph Jessica Craig-Martin

A visit to Sketch is expensive — afternoon
tea in its ground-floor Gallery starts at £69,
while on the first floor is Pierre Gagnaire’s
three-Michelin-starred Lecture Room. But
Sketch is ’grammable, thick with TikTok-
ready moments. It’s an experience all right. At
22, Holt is a kid compared with the traditional
fine-dining customer — once the preserve of

to European cities, “I look under the hashtags
for ‘luxurydining’ and ‘luxuryrestaurants’ ”.
I tell her I had no interest in fancy restau-
rants at her age, so what explains this shift?
“My generation are less interested in things,”
she says. “I would rather spend my money on
an incredible experience I will remember
than a Vuitton handbag.”

Come dine with us


22 • The Sunday Times Style

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