Simple, delicious ideas for
transforming dried pastawhen the cupboards are bare
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editionsROSIE
BIRKETT
W
e all have our favourite low-effort,
pantry-pillaging pasta dishes that come
into their own when the fridge is almost
empty. The universal popularity of dried
pasta undoubtedly owes much to the
fact that it’s one of the most satisfying
meals you can eat practically unadorned.
All it takes sometimes is a generous glug
of olive oil sizzled with sliced garlic and
a pinch of dried chilli, or, to borrow from
Queen Nigella, a slick of butter, Marmite
and a splash of pasta cooking water.
The recipes here aren’t as effortlessly lazy as the
suggestions above, but they are all dishes I’ve come
back to again and again and, with the exception of some
entirely optional radicchio, they all rely heavily on things
you’re likely to have in your cupboard, fridge or freezer.
I make no claims as to the authenticity or originality
of the recipes. They are ideas gleaned from things I’ve
eaten, read or cooked over the years, and that is the
satisfying thing about cooking — it morphs and evolves
along with the fancies, idiosyncrasies and, yes, pantry of
whoever’s holding the wooden spoon.Chilli, anchovy
and greensorecchiette
This dish is a real workhorse
in my kitchen, ideal on days
when I feel in need of
something feisty, nourishing
and delicious. It’s based on a
frugal recipe from Puglia in
southern Italy, hence the crispy
breadcrumbs, or pangrattato,
used as a topping instead of
more luxurious parmesan.
Sometimes I’ll add a few slivers
of fresh fennel or onion into
the oil, or toss the whole lot
with ricotta on serving. If you
don’t have any fresh greens,
it’s also wonderful with
defrosted frozen spinach.Serves 2Ingredients- 6 tbsp olive oil
- 100g stale bread, blitzed
into crumbs - 150-200g mixed greens
leaves, eg cavolo nero,
cabbage, chard, beetroot tops
or spinach, any hard cores or
stems diligently removed - 200g orecchiette or other
small pasta shape - A big pinch of dried
red chilli flakes - A pinch of fennel seeds
- 1 tbsp each of lemon zest
and juice - 1-2 fat garlic cloves, peeled,
smashed and finely chopped - 4 anchovy fillets, chopped
- A handful of parsley,
leaves picked - A knob of butter
01 To make your pangrattato,
warm 2 tbsp olive oil over
a medium-high heat. Toss
in the breadcrumbs and a
pinch of salt and fry, stirring,
for 6-8 min, until golden
and crispy. Set aside.02 Bring a large pan of
salted water to the boil and
blanch the greens for 30-60
seconds (this will depend on
the sturdiness of your greens),
until cooked through. Drain in
a sieve or colander and allow
to dry, really squeezing out
the moisture. Roughly chop
and set aside.03 In the same water, cook
the pasta until al dente — this
might take longer than you’d
expect with the orecchiette.04 Meanwhile, in a heavy-
bottomed frying pan combine
the remaining 4 tbsp olive oil,
the chilli, fennel seeds, lemon
zest, garlic and anchovies.
Place over a medium-to-low
heat and cook gently for
4-5 min until the oil is infused
with all the flavours and the
anchovies have melted away.
Stir through the parsley,
greens and a knob of butter.
When the pasta is cooked,
drain it, reserving a ladleful
of the water.05 Toss the pasta into the
greens with a little pasta
water and the lemon juice.
Taste and season, then
divide between warm bowls.
Scatter over the pangrattato
before serving.