S
uppingatFred’s,themuch-admired
Merivale restaurant in Sydney’s
Paddington, can feel like attending
a convivial dinner party. The boundary
between the open kitchen and dining
room is so enticingly blurred that some
unwitting patrons wander into the culinary
action.Where some chefs might be
enraged, Danielle Alvarez is enchanted.
“I wanted the restaurant to feel
transparent, and that’s the beauty of what
we do,” she says, beaming. “I enjoy it.”
Fred’shasbeenshoweredwithpraise
since opening in late 2016, including
snaring top spot in the latest NSW
delicious. 100 list. The restaurant has
been applauded for its seamless service,
flawlesswinelistandsimpleyet
sophisticated food. But, ever the
perfectionist,thechefisaiminghigher.
“WeneedtobeonourAgameevery
single day,” she says. Alvarez, who spentherformativeyearsatthe
pioneering Chez Panisse in
northern California, has long been
an emissary for farm-to-table cooking.
“WhenIwritethemenusatFred’s,I
neverconsidertheproteinfirst.Ilook
at what the farms have coming in.”
Therecipesonthesepagesare
similarly produce-driven. In late summer
and early autumn, Alvarez looks to
sweetcorn, green beans and apples.
Butthat’snottosayshedoesn’thave
anaffinityformeat,too.“Quailscanbe
challengingtocookonagrill,theskins
canburnorstick,sowrappingthemin
pancetta protects the flesh,” she says.
The chef, who relocated to Australia
more than three years ago, still clings to
someAmericanisms.“Icallitfall,butI’m
happytouseautumn,”sheadds,which
sums up her easygoing, adaptable and
contextual approach.There’snohidingforDanielle Alvarez. Instead
you’llfindFred’sheadcheffrontandcentreof
heropenkitchen,cooland calm asshemarshalls
her high-flying team.AN OPEN BOOK
(^1) / 3 cup(80ml)Calvados(apple brandy
- substitute brandy)
YOGHURT CREAM
150ml thickened cream
150g Greek yoghurtTo make custard, place milk, cream and
vanillapodandseedsinasaucepanover
mediumheatandbringtojustbelowthe
boil.Setaside.Inasecondsaucepan,heat
brown sugar,^1 / 3 cup (80ml) water and(^3) / 4 tspsaltflakesoverhighheatandbring
toboil.Reducetoasimmerandcook,
swirlingpan,untilitreaches121°Cona
sugarthermometer(thiswilltakeabout
6minutes).Carefullyaddhotcream
mixture,stirring until dissolved.
Whiskyolks,wholeeggandcornflourin
aheatproofbowluntilsmooth.Gradually
addhotcreammixtureinasteadystream,
whisking constantly, until well combined.
Return cream mixture to saucepan over
lowheatandcook,stirringwithawooden
spoon, for 2-3 minutes or until custard
coats the back of spoon. Strain through a
finesieveintoabowlanddiscardvanilla
pod. Cover surface directly with plastic
wrapandsetasideuntilneeded.
Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease a baking
trayandlinewithbakingpaper.
To make the rosemary crumble, place
chocolateonpreparedtrayandbake,
stirring halfway, for 10 minutes or until light
golden.Sprinklewithrosemaryandstand
for5minutestocool.Crumblechocolate
mixtureintosmallpiecesandsetaside.
Tocook apple, heat butter in a large
frypanovermedium-highheat.Addapple
andcook,stirringoccasionally,for
5minutesoruntilstartingtocaramelise.
Addcaster sugar and cook, stirring,
for2minutesoruntilsugarisdissolved.
AddCalvadosandcook,stirring,for
2 minutes or until reduced slightly. Set
asideto cool.
Fortheyoghurtcream,inastand
mixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,
whisk cream to soft peaks. Fold through
yoghurtandchilluntilneeded.
Dividecustardandappleamongbowls.
Topwithaspoonfulofyoghurtcreamand
INTERIOR PHOTOGRAPHYscatter with rosemary crumble to serve.
ELISE HASSEY
MARKET BASKET
SOPHIE KITCHEN
@daniellemariealvarez