DECEMBER 2017 223wanted to do a kind of a modernist show,” Miuccia Prada tells us
backstage after the Prada resort ’18 collection, staged on the sixth
floor high above the Prada store in the architecturally epic Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II building – soaring skies, all epic steel structures. The
juxtaposition of the “lightness and the industrial was very inspiring, and
I wanted to work on the contemporary but somehow sporty, a kind of
metamorphosis into an elegance – an elegance of sport, or vice versa”.
And so the collection named ‘Suspended Ensemble’ was a lightness of
being, high up in the clouds so close to the antiquity of the famous
Galleria, with its curling iron and glass dating back to the 19th century. A
feat of engineering, a daring modernism; something Miuccia Prada
knows a thing or two about. The
overwhelming sense from this
collection was of a fragile
sensuality, one of delicate
lingerie, edged with crystals and
feathers, all brought back down to
the ground floor with pale grey
sneakers. “A sensual beauty,
feminine, eccentricity of that kind
of turn-of-the-century, that
beauty,” she explains. Of course,
she knew that a “transparent
dress in front of the industrial
cupola should look good” and it
did; there was a poetic simplicity,
and nice racy touch of the etched
iron on the knee-length socks that
almost segued into a 1920s jazz
note. Fine layers, pastel colours,
ephemeral and totally escapist.
“As always, I like what is light
and dark, yet something
modern,” she says. This was her
first formal presentation of a
cruise collection, although she
doesn’t like the word ‘cruise’. So
call it what you will, resort,
perhaps, or ‘holiday’; it is a happy
place to be, and why we are
writing a postcard.
Before the ‘holiday’ collection,
we had lunch at Pasticceria
Marchesi, situated a few floors
below, where we feasted on tiny
plates of deliciousness and cakes- eat as many cakes as you like
here. Prada owns Marchesi, which has to be one of the best brand
alignments, if you have a sweet tooth and love Prada. Well, who doesn’t?
As any seasoned Milanese buyer/editor/stylist will attest, Via Monte
Napoleone is the real fashion hub, an axis of the best Italian fashion
stores, and there is a Marchesi here, too, practically at right angles to the
Prada womenswear store (which has the best drop from the catwalk: it
is impossible to leave empty-handed).
Also in this street is Pasticceria Cova Milano. It is another local
institution, a place to people-watch and gossip. The truffle sandwich is
mouthwateringly memorable, as are the dainty boxes of chocolates.
Further up Via Monte Napoleone, opposite Céline, is a narrow cobbled
side street, Via Borgospesso, and ‘da Bice’ (Ristorante Bice), which is one of
the booked-out places to have dinner during Milan fashion week.
Ristorante Da Giacomo is the other big name in town during the week,
and is one of the prettiest restaurants in Milan, with its eau de nil walls and
beautiful tiled floors. There is also a newer version at eye level with the
Duomo, situated on the side of Piazza del Duomo. The food is amazing.
And so in between the shows and the food, some exercise is required.
The parks are beautiful and full of forgotten statues, good for running
or walking. A Vog ue favourite is Parco Sempione, near the
legendaryCastello Sforzesco. The Triennale di Milano is here, too, at
Palazzo dell’Arte, a greatdesign and art museum, the restaurant (yes,
back to food) is good, and the
bookstore is fabulous and
stocked with lots of Etorre
Sottsass’s Memphis stuff
and excellent fashion and
photography books.
Another must on the book
front is 10 Corso Como, founded
and owned by Carla Sozzani,
sister of the late Vog ue Italia
editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani.
The books are great here and
there is always a thought-
provoking photographic
exhibition and a tempting store
downstairs that has a carefully
curated thrum of Comme des
Garçons, Azzedine Alaïa,
Vivienne Westwood, Sacai,
Vetements ... the list is endless.
(They have neataccessories and
good menswear, too.) The little
evergreen courtyard is the place
to drain aglass of red wine,
andagain people-watch. It’s all
about watching.
But back to Prada. Never leave
Milan without a visit to the
Fondazione Prada. It is heavenly
for many reasons. Firstly, the
renovated building is pure joy;
there is a gold wall, enough said.
And Mrs Prada is passionate
about art and culture and the
exhibitions are curated by
the most fascinating and
fabulous people. Following the ‘holiday’ show, the exhibition at the
Fondazione was Italian TV from the 70s. Intense, funny, emotional: all
you can hope for. And there is Bar Luce here also, designed by Wes
Anderson, which is so wonderfully nostalgic, and clever; you feel as
though you are on the set of any one of his movies. Good for Insta
Stories. The food is simple, with a long list of toasted panini and cakes.
That’s enough. Do any of this and you’ve done Milan. You will be
broke, perhaps, but richer. Shop your head off. Also you have to book in
advance to see The Last Supper. Prada is synonymous with holidays; ever
since 1913 the company has produced the finest luggage and bags. So
INDIGITAL ALISON don’t leave without one. Pack light, leave heavy: you’ll love Milan. ■
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PRADA RESORT ’18 PRADA RESORT ’18